Often, I’m asked about businesses to start.
Usually, the person asking has low-to-zero capital to invest; wants to start part-time; and, wants “a simple business to start”:
What is a business that I can start, so simple in nature, that virtually I (perhaps with the help of a friend) could start with less than $3000 and some hard work?
Well, there are lots of what I call ‘traditional’ businesses that you can start part-time, depending on your talents:
For example, if you are good at photography, you could do wedding photos at nights or on weekends. Same if you like baking (“cakes delivered to your door”).
But, these aren’t as easy to scale part-time, in my opinion, as an online business …
… which is why I prefer online businesses, these days.
Even then, some online businesses are better than others:
For example, starting a blog (perhaps like this one), or selling information products (e.g. eBooks), or even starting an eBay business might be relatively easy, but they’re hard to scale into something that might one day take you full-time (so that you can quit your job and become your own boss) or even – eventually -become saleable.
So, let me share with you the little-known secret of the type of online business that I think is:
1. easiest to start, and
2. makes the most money, and
3. is still quite scaleable and saleable (the two magic words if you want to retire rich).
The secret is to create a 2-sided market place.
A two-sided market place is any kind of business that has buyers on one side and sellers on the other:
1. eBay is one example: it’s people and businesses selling to other people and businesses.
2. Amazon is NOT an example (it’s very hard to set up a warehouse and systems to become an online seller like Amazon) but the Amazon Marketplace is a example: it has buyers and sellers using Amazon’s payment platform to sell stuff to each other.
3. Etsy is another example: people make things (arts, crafts, jewellery, etc.) and list it on Etsy.com where people browse and buy things: Etsy doesn’t make anything, sell anything, or hold stock … it just makes a % of every sale for introducing both sides of the marketplace to each other.
4. The most famous recent example is Airbnb, started by 3 guys who simply came up with the idea of letting people share their couches for backpackers to stay (they weren’t even the first: couchsurfing.com got there first); it has since evolved into a real competitor to the Expedias and Pricelines of this world and is on track to become a $1bill.+ company.
That’s why, when people ask me what business to start, this type of business is usually where I then point them.
But, how to start?!
To start Airbnb (I suggest you don’t, this is just an example):
1. One of the startup’s founding team goes around their home city photographing and signing up a whole bunch of ‘bed and breakfast’-style accommodation (I know that Airbnb didn’t start with this; remember, this is just an example)
2. The other founder gets to kick back with a tiny budget to drive traffic to a ‘sign up to be notified when … ‘ landing page (LaunchRock is ideal for this).
[HINT: try $50 worth of Facebook ads and another $50 of Google Adwords and see if that drives any traffic. Spend $10 on each ad platform on 5 different keywords rather than $50 on one. Remember to target your ads specifically to your city (I know FB allows this; I'm not sure if Google does). Submit your landing page to sites like betali.st and startupli.st. Wait for a more significant story before you spam Techcrunch and Mashable]
3. Once you have 20 to 50 BnB’s signed up, and perhaps 200 – 600 names on the landing page, you put the two sides together and see if magic happens!
4. If so, you rinse and repeat in another city, and another (until you raise sufficient investment to allow you to hire ‘city managers’ to do the photographic/doorknocking for you).
5. If not, this marketplace idea sucks. Try another.
Now, stop asking and go do it …
LATEST NEWS
Catch my latest interview here: http://www.creditcardassist.com/blog/7-million-7-years-best-of-the-best-blogger-series-22702/ - thanks Bill (founder of Credit Card Assist).
.
.
There’s an old saying that you may have heard. It’s used particularly in relation to real-estate, but it can be applied to many forms of investment. It’s:
You make money when you buy, not sell.
One of my new readers asked me to explain what it means:
Could you expend on this statement a little or maybe you have some related blogs about this on your site? “…buy at the right price you make money when you BUY not when you sell.”
I don’t think I’ve ever written explicitly about this age-old investment adage, because it’s almost a tautologogy …
… after all, an investment is something that you should never need to sell!
To me, a true investment is something that generates ongoing income. So why would you ever sell it?
Any ‘asset’ that you buy, specifically to sell to (hopefully!) generate a profit, is in reality a SPECULATION, not a true investment.
Business makes these kinds of speculations all the time: buying trading stock (or labor) with the expectation [read: hope] of selling it at a sufficient price to generate a healthy profit.
Businesses take a calculated risk in doing so, hoping that the potential profits justify the risk, but …
… 90% of business owners are wrong!
They say that 9 out of 10 businesses fail within their first 5 to 10 years. They fail for lots of reasons, but one of the main ones is that these simply cannot make enough money when they sell due to competitive pressures, new products, outdated manufacturing techniques, low volumes, etc., etc.
As investors, we cannot afford to make the same mistake, otherwise we are just gamblers – gambling that: red will hit more times than black; we will roll a natural 7; AAPL stock will go long this month; Las Vegas house prices will continue to climb.
On the other hand, as true investors, we have to buy well, then hold on for the long run.
It is the income from our investments that makes us rich (by funding our dream lifestyle), not the amount that we could sell the investment for.
How about you? Are you an investor or gambler? Do you see the difference?
I have previously gone out on a limb to say that it’s very difficult (actually, I said impossible) to pay to get good commercial / investing advice.
Why?
Unlike a doctor, accountant, or attorney who can only give themselves so much self-help [AJC: unless the doctor's a hypochondriac; the accountant's an embezzler; or, the attorney's a criminal] …
… any “investment / business advisor” really worth listening to is probably making too much money for themselves to waste their time advising you on how to make money.
On the other hand, on rare occasions, you can find such high-quality advice:
- You can find a mentor; somebody who’s been there / done that and is willing to counsel you one-on-one
- You can buy stock in a company owned by such a person e.g. Berkshire Hathaway; by investing in BH (for example) you are ‘paying’ Warren Buffett to look after your wealth as a by-product of looking after his own.
WARNING: if you ever receive a bill from either of these types of people … run for the hills! They are not whom they seem
But, there is a time when you DO need to seek – and, pay for – financial advice; to illustrate, here is an e-mail that I recently received:
Heh Adrian, do you think you can help and ole lady, who has been swindled more time that you can count, now unemployed (forced retirement), drowning in debt with but 1.1 million in property assets and 80K in bank that I am using to live off but it will only last 11 months with what I am paying out? I am 66 my husband (also retired) is 68.
It was our two financial advisors that got us into some of this trouble. We Lost our retirement investment through their recommendations. Even our other real estate investment (2 raw land and 1 condo) are now worth less than the remaining mortgages.
[My last] $80k is not just spending money; it is also supporting those mortgages, which I can’t sell due to the market.
You see, the time to pay for GOOD financial advice is when you think you might be in financial trouble (even if it was BAD financial advice that got you there, in the first place).
That’s why I don’t like to seek advice about WHERE to put my money.
But, this reader DEFINITELY needs to seek urgent professional financial advice!
She should get a recommendation from a friend to a fee-based advisor and/or accountant and just ask them to help her make some immediate decisions about her current structure: e.g. should she (can she) walk away from her mortgages? How much can she budget for the next 12 months in living expenses, and so on?
Then she’ll need to start learning (reading this blog is a good start) how to make real money, all over again …
What would you do in her situation?
At what age is it appropriate to take financial responsibility for your own life? Before college? During college? After college?
When is it appropriate to grow up, financially?
To help us explore this issue, here is a question that I received by e-mail from RichKidSmartKid:
I’m 29 presently in my first year of college where I used money from my inheritance that I had invested, sold and used to pay for college. I’m soon going to be broke and wont have an income and will be relying on my mother to help me financially though school.
I want to bounce back from this financial hell and increase my networth. Possibly even made some money by the time I complete univeristy. I was wondering what advice do you have?
Sounds like her name is where RKSK wants to be rather than where she is. It looks like she had money, but now it’s gone, and would like some again!
Look, with $6k cash and going to college, the reality is that she is still probably $6.5k better off than most college kids, so here is my advice:
1. Talk to other college kids and see how they do (or intend to) get by – it’s amazing how much you can learn by listening to what other people have to say – then do the opposite
2. Read this post, it’s probably my best advice for college-age kids:
http://7million7years.com/2008/08/22/start-the-next-facebook/
Now, this doesn’t directly apply to RichKidSmartKid who is 29 – but, only in 1st year (good on her for finally thinking about her education, though) – but I have an issue with college kids calling themselves ‘kids’:
In most countries (other than those in the privileged west), by the time you reach college age you would be an adult, long married, with plentiful hungry children and a crop in the field.
In those countries, RichKidSmartKid would have been considered a self-supporting adult a LONG time ago!
Maybe it’s time to start thinking like one now?
There’s a war raging out there: it’s being fought by authors and bloggers everywhere.
But, is it the right war? Is it a just war? Or, are we just throwing ourselves, by the millions, into a hail of fire: exploding spending, rampant inflation, the death of social security?
Sure, as we sit in the relative safety of our trenches (at least, that’s what we tell ourselves, until a random mortar shell of job loss or unexpected expenses chooses to lob our way) this is not OUR future … it’s somebody else’s, or it’s too far away, or it just can’t happen …
The sad truth is that legions have jumped the wall before us and have been brutally cut down for lack of an adequate nest-egg; it’s sad to see them go over the dreaded wall of retirement (be it their time, or forced on them early) without an adequate safety net … when they do, it’s as though their grim fate had already been sealed.
Broke – or ‘just’ financially crippled – and unable (for financial reasons) to live life as they had hoped, they are a sad, sad lot.
You see, the war that they fought wasn’t – isn’t – a just war. It’s not even a war … well, it shouldn’t even be more than a skirmish.
It’s the War Against Debt!
When it comes to that war, I’m strictly a pacifist; isn’t it better to simply avoid BAD debt?
Of course, that doesn’t mean that we can’t … shouldn’t … defend ourselves.
Far from it: if we find that BAD debt has snuck through our defences, let’s keep an eye on it. And, if we find that it’s also EXPENSIVE debt, then let’s whip out the Big Guns and wipe it out. Quickly, surgically …
… but, let’s not commit Debt Genocide.
You see, unlike the well-intentioned, but largely Debt-McArthyist “ALL Debt Is Bad, So Let’s Wipe It Out” rabble out there, let’s first ask The Missing Question:
What will you do after your debt is paid off?
“Well, start investing of course!”
But, does that REALLY happen? Who better to ask than Money Reasons:
This past February 2010, I became totally debt free, but now what!
I thought that there would be a period where I would break even for a while, and then start to plow about $1,000 extra each month into investments! So now that it’s seven months later and how much extra did I save or invest? Not a single cent!
Hang on, the whole purpose of suiting up for battle – for going to war against debt – was so that you could start investing, right? What’s up with that, Money Reasons:
Well it’s been a matter of bad luck with equipment breaking down and needing replaced and spending too much for our past vacation to Hilton Head Island!
But it’s also been a subtle form of LifeStyle Inflation! Thinking back now, I realize that when wants would arise, I would just go ahead and buy it. Yeah, I thought about it a bit, but I knew that I had the cash. Then when your car and lawn mower broke down, I had the cash too…
Money Reasons should have started investing well before all of his debt was paid off … he should have started investing as soon as his expensive debt was paid off and left his cheap debt on a regimen of minimum payments.
The problem with this war is that it’s an unjust war; as TraineeInvestor said: “Debt is a tool. Paying it off is simply choosing not to use the tool.”
Yes, becoming debt free is simply a tactic …
If you have to go and fight a war, don’t fight a war against debt …
… go and fight a war for investment
A couple of weeks ago, I shared my thoughts on how – and why – to set up an emergency fund with just $0. For a start, it doesn’t take much cash
I suggested using a HELOC, or tapping your 401k in case of a true emergency. Some of our readers had other suggestions:
- Trainee Investor suggested selling stocks (they can be liquidated pretty quickly), or taking an unsecured overdraft.
- Evan suggested adding the “Cash value portion of a whole life insurance policy to the list. You can have the cash in your account within a day or two”
- Investor junkie says that you can avoid selling your stocks by taking a margin loan [AJC: just beware of the dreaded 'margin call' which can force you to sell your stocks - possibly at a loss - if there's a drop in market price]
And, Yahoo Finance provides their view of the The Best (and Worst) Ways to Raise Fast Cash; check it out. Then let me know if you’ve changed tack with your own emergency fund, or if you still prefer to fund it with cash?
I’m publishing a whole series of posts targeting Debt … it has very little to do with conventional financial wisdom on this critical subject. Here is the second post (I have another one coming up, soon) …
______________________________
Gen-X Finance is polling his readers as to whether they would prefer to pay down debt or save:
If you have both debt and a need to save money, how do you prioritize? Some people will pay off debt at all costs before saving a penny. Others will be fine getting by with minimum payments while dumping as much money into savings or investments as possible. While others try to do a little bit of both. That’s why the poll today asks how you view this subject.
You should go ahead and answer the poll.
Now, this is such an important decision – perhaps one of the MOST important mindset changes that you need to make if you want to follow in my $7 million in 7years footsteps – that, for my new readers, I will point you again to my trademark Cash Cascade™ system (don’t worry, it’s simple and free) that replaces the Debt Snowball, the Debt Avalanche and most of the other other debt repayment systems that you may have previously tried.
Here’s why it works:
People make the mistake of thinking that there is GOOD DEBT (typically, investment debt) and BAD DEBT (typically, consumer debt) … but, this is only true BEFORE YOU TAKE ON THE DEBT.
Once you are in debt, then there is only CHEAP DEBT and EXPENSIVE DEBT. Put simply, pay down your expensive debt, until only the single digit ones (on an after tax basis) are left, THEN start investing.
This goes against the ‘pay down all debt’ theories, but works both logically and practically. Try it … and, let me know how it’s working for you?
I agree with Financial Samurai’s basic sentiment, which is to effectively ‘write off’ your 401k and Social Security:
Every month I contribute $1,375 to my 401K so that by the end of the year, the 401K is maxed out at $16,500. Unfortunately, $16,500 a year is a ridiculously low amount of money to save for retirement if you really do the math. After 10 years, you might have $200,000, and after 30 years you might have $600,000 to $1 million depending on the markets and your employer’s match. Whatever the case may be, the 401K is simply not enough money to retire on, especially since you need to pay tax upon distribution.
CNN Money and other advisers showcased super savers who to my surprise include 401K and IRA contributions as part of their percentage savings calculations. In other words, if you make $100,000 a year, save $4,000 a year in cash, and contribute $16,000 in your 401K, you are considered by financial advisers as saving 20% of your gross income. Your $20,000 in “savings” is woefully light because in reality, you are only saving $4,000 a year. With the stock market implosion of 2008, your 401K has proven itself to be totally unreliable. Like Social Security, contribute to it like any good citizen should, but in no way depend on Social Security or your 401K to retire a comfortable life. I
Depending on Social Security is depending on the government doing the right thing. There’s no way that’s going to happen. Depending on your 401K is depending on people choosing the right stocks consistently over the long run, which isn’t going to happen either.
Because Social Security is a burden on governments and society, it’s always at risk of being watered down or eliminated … this is less of a risk the older your are (hence closer to receiving the payments).
But, not so your 401k: while governments can (and, probably will) water down – instead of increase – the contributions and benefits of your retirement program, the money that you contribute (and, your employer match) is still yours!
I don’t think you’ll ever lose what you contribute + whatever gains the flawed investment choices available may bring.
I look at my retirement plan (which I haven’t contributed to in years!) as insurance: if all else fails, when I reach whatever age the government of the time lets me access MY money, I’ll have something to keep me one step away from homeless … just.
So, I agree with Financial Samurai’s closing advice:
The only person you can depend on is yourself. This is why you must save that minimum 20% of your gross income every year on top of contributing to your 401K and IRA if you can.
You’ve heard of Paying Yourself Once? Well, I think you need to Pay Yourself Twice™ … once inside your 401k (there’s your ‘insurance policy premium’), and once outside of your 401k.
It’s the money that you can put aside OUTSIDE of your 401k that will drive your wealth, because you can put it to MUCH BETTER USE (e.g. investing in business, real-estate, value stocks, etc.) than that money locked away inside your 401k and in the hands of grossly under-performing, fee-driven mutual fund managers
[You may select more than one option]
Our last foray into the world of credit cards pulled up an array of options around using the points generated; for example, Mike says that he:
Usually pockets the cash back but flying in the A380 Suites are always nice.
And, Investor Junkie uses the points to generate extra cash to invest:
Instead of Best Buy cards, it deposits directly into my Fidelity account.
A popular option, I’m sure, would be to ‘fly them off’ (as I do). On the other hand, Costco gives cash rebates (which we also enjoy). But, I would be interested to see how our readers currently redeem their credit card reward points?
Since you probably have multiple cards, I’ve allowed multiple options on this Reader poll, but just choose the one or two that you mostly figure on using?
Once you have made your selection/s, please read on ….
I wonder, though, where the best bag for buck (almost literally) comes from? I mean, each rewards program must have some sort of formula as to how they convert every dollar that you spend into points, then a more complicated formula (with different weightings, I’m guessing) to convert those points into the cash and/or airline miles and/or other stuff that they need to ‘buy’ to give to you.
But, I’m guessing that those weightings are NOT equal; so what is a more ‘efficient’ (or is that ‘effective’?) use for your points, for the credit cards that you have signed up for?
Using your points for:
1. Cash? Whether you direct it to your investing account, or just spend it.
2. More Stuff? Like Best Buy cards … I used to give the rewards to my employees (anything from bicycles to trips for 2, all paid for by redeemed rewards vouchers) in recognition for ‘above and beyond’ performance.
3. Airline Miles? I’m told that this is the best $$-for-point conversion that you can get … and, that redeeming your points for international flights outweighs domestic travel in terms of the ‘free value’ that you receive.
Since I fly a lot (esp. internationally), generally at my cost, this last option seems the best for me …
Logically, we should aim to get the most Usable Cash Value from our credit card points i.e. either cash, or something that we would convert into cash by using the points INSTEAD of using our own cash on something that we WOULD have spent cash on, anyway.
If it’s something that you would NOT have normally bought for yourself, then the Usable Cash Value is actually low [AJC: under my definition!].
Although, I am contradicting myself a little because I just ‘blew’ a whole heap of points on that First Class airline seat that I would never have bought for myself!
On the other hand, I am at the ‘other end’ of my financial journey, so what the hey
If you own a boat that’s large, expensive, and is likely to take on water from time to time, you plan well ahead and put in a bilge pump.
But, if you have a dinghy and you’re paddling out on Lake Michigan, far away enough from shore to make swimming a poor second choice, then you carry a bucket … and, if the boat springs a leak (highly unlikely … it’s not a bad dinghy) or, water happens to come over the side from time to time …
… well, you start bailing water!
An Emergency Fund’s a little like that:
What you do depends on whether you expect the emergency [AJC: I know, it's an oxymoron] or not. Of course, if you expect it – or, can reasonably foresee it (like problems with a beaten up old car), then it’s not an emergency at all … just something that you can’t budget an exact amount for.
But, you can provision for it; at least, as best you can.
But, true emergencies do arise – or, semi-expected events blow up bigger and/or sooner than you ‘expected’ – so what do you do?
Try and build up and emergency fund but not spend it even if a really great investing opportunity comes up [AJC: what's the opportunity/cost of that?!]?
Or, why don’t you simply find a bucket of money that you can tap into IF an emergency arises … but, one that costs you zip (or, even makes you money) in the LIKELY event that an emergency does NOT arise.
Here are some examples of In-Case-Of-An-Emergency-Please-Break-The-Glass Funds:
1. A HELOC (home equity Line of Credit) that you put in place on your home ‘just in case’
Use an online mortgage calculator to make sure that you can borrow enough to cover your likely living costs + the repayments for as long as you think it will take you to get back on your feet and repay the loan. This is a pretty good, flexible option that only costs what you use.
The other advantage is that you should be able to raise a LOT more than you can save … and, it will be available as soon as you put the paperwork in place (a true emergency fund could take YEARS to save).
On the other hand – say, if you lose your job and the bank finds out – the HELOC may be revoked just when you need it the most … of course, if you’ve already drawn down the funds before the ‘pink slip’ is in your hands ….
2. Your 401k
There are usually provisions that allow you to borrow or withdraw funds against your Retirement Account; again, this may allow for ‘protection’ against fairly large emergencies (say, a few months off work), but it may come at a hefty opportunity cost … particularly, if the fund rules don’t allow for the funds to go back in on a tax-preferred basis, if you’ve managed to recover quickly enough.
Also, the tax and/or penalty interest costs may be quite high.
3. Your Car
Maybe you can do a sale and lease-back on your car .. or, maybe you can sell your car for cash and either use some of the proceeds to ‘trade down’ (therefore, freeing up some cash) or even make an exception to the “don’t finance a depreciating asset rule” by financing a (cheaper) one, instead (thereby, freeing up a lot more cash).
Remember, you’re really borrowing some money to tide you over in an emergency … you don’t expect to get out of it squeaky clean.
4. Credit Cards
Yep … this is the time that a bunch of credit cards sitting in a drawer can be really useful … but, it’s very expensive (19%+ p.a.) so make sure you only take this route for really short-term emergencies that you KNOW you can trade your way out of really quickly (i.e. less than a year).
5. The Three F’s
And … don’t forget that getting on your hands and knees and grovelling to your Friends, Family, or other associated Fools is also an option!
Anybody have any other true ‘Emergency Fund’ source ideas?