Be rich? Or, appear rich?

overspendingTrent at A Simple Dollar poses an equally simple question: Do You Want to Appear Rich? Or Do You Want to Be Rich?

Now, if this were a frugal-living blog, I think you know what my answer would be, but – like Trent – I have some personal experience of living beyond your means to keep up with appearances:  I grew up in a house where my family clearly lived beyond its means.

But, my father confided our true financial position to me – and, only to me – so, I became financially self-sufficient at a very young age. Others saw this as me having a strong sense of responsibility; however, if they knew my dark financial secret, they would see it as merely as the early manifestation of a strong survival instinct.

Whatever the fiscal lessons that I learned at a young age, they have clearly been to my long-term financial benefit …

Having said that, by nature, I like the good things in life … being rich suits me 🙂

However, even before I made $7 million in 7 years, I knew how to appear rich by being clever with the money that I had.

For example, when my friends were buying new Australian or Japanese cars (hence riding the depreciation roller-coaster to the tune of 15% to 30% per year), I bought a ten year old 911 Porsche.

Not only did I have a ton of fun racing it – and, rolling it on and off tow trucks whenever it had mechanical problems 😉 – I made money when I sold it.

Clearly, buying used is one way to appear rich (and, enjoying some of the fruits of your labor now) without actually holding yourself back from becoming rich by overspending.

Another way is to avoid the fiscal habits of either the Debt Wealthy or the Buy Wealthy: don’t buy or borrow-to-buy ‘stuff’ i.e. depreciating assets like cars, boats, and vacation homes.

If you must have some of these things, then take a leaf out of the book of the Rent Wealthy: rent whenever you can afford to, otherwise go without.

For example, it’s been said that you can charter a boat that is one size larger than you could afford to buy five times a year for about the cost of owning that smaller dinghy that you were about to buy. Similar logic applies to vacation homes, etc.

Use this rule of thumb (i.e. at least 5 weekends a year – every year – of use) to help you decide when you should buy or rent … assuming that you could afford to buy according to the 5% rule 😉

I want to sell my business …

sell_a_businessA week or two ago, a reader – who shall remain nameless as they are currently in negotiations – asked for some advice on selling their business:

I have a software company with a new proprietary software technology.  The company is considered for buyout due to the new technology (currently there are no revenues and no debt). The projected total revenues over the next three years is $1.55m (First year: $0.15m, 2nd year $0.4m & Third year: $1m) and total over six years is $4.55m (with 4th, 5th, 6th years at $1m each). What is the right valuation for this company if the company were to be acquired now.

This is a common request that I receive and I always have a soft spot for entrepreneurs, having been down this path a number of times, and I will give you some guidelines in a future post …

… but, in this case Mr X (as I will refer to him) has NO business to sell right now, so the usual formulas simply won’t work!

Why no business?

Well, as Mr X admits, the company has “no revenues” right now: no revenues, no business … no business, no business valuation.

But, Mr X does have a new proprietary software technology; apparently, one that at least one major company wants to acquire.

So, the first step is to recognize that we are selling a product (the “proprietary” rights to a new software technology), but we first need to find out what it would cost to duplicate the technology.

Mr X says: “4-6 months with 2 people on the job”

That puts a ‘lowball price’ on the software of $20k to $100k depending upon whether it is developed onshore or offshore.

Now, that’s assuming that it can be duplicated, but Mr X assures me that it cannot:

All major companies in this area have been trying to figure out an equivalent technology for the last 5-6 years or so, but with no success.

Given that Mr X’s software can’t be copied (6+ years development effort, with NO guarantee of success), then his company is worth whatever he can negotiate 🙂

Since he wanted a better estimate of potential selling price than that, I told him that it’s time to look at potential revenue, which Mr X projects over the next three years as: $1.55m (First year: $0.15m, 2nd year $0.4m & 3rd year: $1m).

If the company generates < $1 mill per year over the next three years, then I think that Mr X would be struggling to get $500k – $1 mill. for it …

… if he is offered less – and, he probably will be as the market is quite small for any major corporate (at the numbers provided above) then, if it were my software, I would be tempted to go ahead and get those revenues for myself then sell in 18 months to 3 years time.

Here’s my reasoning:

1. Development effort on Mr X’s side is tiny, but he feels strongly that his technology can’t be easily copied,

2. Mr X has a market that he feels can generate revenues of, say $1.5m+ over three years (discounted to today’s value), which are relatively small numbers for any substantive corporation.

In fact, if Mr X is offered more that that $500k to $1 mill. that I suggested, it will probably be as a result of a combination of how badly one of these companies wants (needs?) his technology and how big THEY think the market will be for them.

That’s why the next step, if Mr X hasn’t already done so, is to assess what revenues the purchaser believes they can make over the same period (better marketing/sales than Mr X?); better yet, what profitability.

If he doesn’t already have a good feel for these numbers, then he will need to try and get close to somebody on the inside of the company and carefully ask them …

… after all, the price that you set should always be as close to whatever the company that you are hoping to sell to can make, minus a fair margin for their trouble. Anything less, and you are being a little too generous 😉

The Money Guy is not for me!

 MoneyGuyVote

Wow!

It seems that I don’t need to teach you anything about the value of mentors … you overwhelmingly voted against me asking the Money Guy to manage my $7 million.

Although, some did question why I need a financial advisor at all; for example Trainee Investor said:

Question: why do you need a financial adviser? Preserving wealth is largely a matter of common sense – at least I think so (but I’m only a trainee so it would be a brave man who listens to me). It’s making it that’s hard.

It’s exactly because preserving wealth SEEMS easier than making money and SEEMS like common sense that I may need an ‘advisor’ …

… after all, $7 million is a lot of money and I am finding it harder to preserve than I expected [AJC: some of the reasons: bad markets; bad advice; and, bad management … and, who can I blame for the latter two except me?!].

So, isn’t that the point?

Find somebody who has made – and preserved – at least 10 times as much as me, and ask them to advise (more mentor) me, just as I have advised each of you on so many occasions?

After all, isn’t the impact on me at least 10 times what the impact is to you?

Cars and radiation …

half_lifeWhat do cars and radioactive material have in common?

Well, besides each being a potential environmental disaster if not managed well … they both have a half-life:

– For radioactive material, it’s the period of time for a substance undergoing decay to decrease by half,

– For your car, it’s the time it takes for you to lose half your money!

This is because the largest cost of auto ownership is not the finance charges, the taxes, the gas that you put in the tank, or even the tires or repair costs … it’s a largely ‘hidden’ cost called depreciation.

Picture 1

You see ‘depreciation’ when you sell the car as The Amount You Paid less The Amount That You Get Back.

Even the amount that you get back helps to hide the true depreciation cost because you will often trade in the vehicle and the dealer might ‘sweeten’ his offer by giving you a higher trade-in figure than the car is really worth … but, what he is really doing is giving you a discount on the purchase price of the new car (a discount that you may well have received – or exceeded – even if you didn’t offer a trade-in).

Even if the 15% to 20% p.a. depreciation claimed by Debt Free Bible is true, what effect does that have on the value of the vehicle?

Picture 2

The chart shows if you paid $25k for your new car, you can only get $12,800 if you sell it after 3 years, even if you decide to hang on to the car, it has cost you $25,000 – $12,800  = $12,200 …

… or, $4,067 a year!

[ AJC: And, don’t forget all of those other costs that we mentioned: “the finance charges, the taxes, the gas that you put in the tank, or even the tires or repair costs” 😉 ]

So, how accurate is that “15% to 20% p.a. depreciation claimed by Debt Free Bible”?

Well, a paper published by the IAES, which evaluated the depreciation rate of 15 automobile brands available in the USA for the years 2000-2004, yielded 5 tiers of depreciation rates:

Tier One: Honda and Lexus with an average annual depreciation rate of 13.4-14.1%.

Tier Two: Volkswagen and Toyota with an average annual depreciation rate of 16.5-16.8%.

Tier Three: Nissan, Mercedes, BMW, Hyundai, and Mercury with an average depreciation rate of 18.9-21.2%.

Tier Four: Chevrolet, Chrysler, and Saturn with average annual depreciation rates of 25.4-27.5%.

Tier Five: Dodge, Ford, and Buick with an average annual depreciation rate of 31.1-32.6%.

Now, using these rates, I have calculated the Half-Life of each brand for you, simply by using the Rule of 72 [AJC: divide the depreciation rate into 72; the answer is the number of years it will take to halve the purchase price] ….

Use this table to find 7 Million 7 Years Patented Half-Life For Your Next Car:

Honda / Lexus: 5 Years 3 Months.

Volkswagen / Toyota: 4 Years 4 months

Nissan / Mercedes / BMW / Hyundai / Mercury: 3 years 7 Months.

Chevrolet / Chrysler / Saturn: 2 Years 9 Months.

Dodge / Ford / Buick: 2 Years 3 Months.

Using this information, you could do some very fancy tables about the break-even point of spending more to buy a new (say) Lexus instead of a new (say) Nissan – factoring all the other costs of ownership, if you want to get real fancy – given that you have a couple of years worth of depreciation to play with …

… rather, I would like you to see that you are far better off buying a second-hand vehicle of the type that you are after, so that you can pay half-price 😉

You do this, simply by buying a 4 year, 4 month old Volkswagen, or a 3 year, 3 month old Buick, etc.

Get it?

And, even if you were determined to buy new, you are still probably better off buying a slightly ‘better’ brand used – even if it means going up a tier or two – than you are in buying a new ‘standard’ brand auto.

Sorry GM and Ford, but you are in DEEP trouble, because you simply aren’t competitive!

Betting on the lottery …

megamillions

Ill Liquidity candidly (yet, I am sure, at least a little tongue-in-cheek) shares his plan to make $7 million:

That’s the problem with most retirement plans. I figure I’ll be lucky to still want to be able to do the things I want to do now if I can make it to retirement. That’s why I, and everyone else, would like to have a 7million7year plan of my own. Right now it’s betting on the lottery.

Coincidentally, on the same day that I settled on one of my development sites (it was the $3 mill. one) I was offered a lottery ticket by a vendor … I declined, to which he said “it’s only $7 and you can win $15 mill.”

If anybody can afford $7 it’s me … yet, $15 mill. would offer a huge benefit to me, too … my blog would become $21 mill in 9 years, for example 😉

However, I still politely declined and the look on his face was one of clear non-belief i.e. “who in their right mind would turn down $15 mill. for $7”.

You see, most people’s only plan to make $7 mill. is “betting on the lottery” …

… but, that’s NEVER been my plan.

I wonder if that’s one reason why I’m rich today?

The rule of 70 …

Other than a tenuous link to my previous video on compounding, the only reason that I am showing this video is because of this guy’s uncanny similarity to a famous physicist, Julius Sumner Miller, who graced our television screens with his quirky mix of science and entertainment when I was still growing up [AJC: yes, we did have televisions, even when I was a child 🙂 ] …

… not the only reason, because this video also shows you the power of the rule of 70.

Before you get too excited with the power of compounding, just remember that each doubling (at the 7% compounding rate that he is talking about) takes approx. 10 years:

– in 40 years, you double your money 4 times; so if you start with $100k, you end up with $1.6 million,

– if inflation runs at 4%, this also means your $1.6 million is only ‘worth’  (because this causes your money’s value to halve every 70 / 4 = 17.5 years) a bit less than $400k

… sorry, but when you’re working in 10 year chunks, time really begins to get the best of a single human being’s working life 😉

PS the very first computer program that I ever wrote – on paper tape, with holes punched in it – was to calculate the grain of rice-on-chessboard story that is mentioned here 🙂

PPS I know of this rule as the Rule of 72 … perhaps 70 is easier to remember? In any event, it makes not a great deal of difference over a decade …

Do I need The Money Guy’s help? You tell me …

brianhead

Should I trust The Money Guy with my $7 million?

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A few days ago, in a discussion about the merits (or otherwise) of financial advisors, I made an admission:

I’m having a hard time finding advisors and mentors who can move me to Making Money 301 (protecting my wealth) …

If you read the article, you’ll begin the see why … in the meantime, Rick kindly offered a suggestion:

Yes! I suspect that there are few people that have $70 million of their own, and fewer still with a long track record of protecting it! You might have to settle for someone with a lot of experience managing other people’s money that has the right mindset to protect your wealth.

I’ve found that Brian Preston’s podcasts has given very solid MM301 advice: http://www.moneyguy.com/. If I had $7 million to protect I would ask him or someone like him.

But, WJ proffered the opposing view:

You gotta be kidding.

Asking Adrian who have made $7million himself to send his money to someone who have not made that much money from his supposed expertise?

The only way that advisor is getting rich is from the management fees he’s getting from those clients of his.

My philosophy is simple. If I want to get rich thru properties, I will want to look for someone who have done it thru properties. So, in order for me to trust the advice of the financial advisor, he must show me that he has already achieve financial independence thru investing(not thru giving advice). That is totally different.

I’m stuck!

Who is right? Should I take The Money Guy’s advice or not …

… to help you decide, here is the link to his web-site:

http://www.moneyguy.com/

Please show me the way by voting on the poll above and perhaps leaving a comment below …

The Myth of Control …

MaggieSimpsonDriving

There are so many myths holding us back from making significant chunks of money – the sort of money that can carry you from $30k in debt to $7 million in the bank in just 7 years – that I feel that it is my solemn duty to break as many of them as possible …

But, why do these myths exist?

I think for two reasons:

1. They may work for the lower required annual compound growth rates i.e. smaller Numbers / later Dates that most personal finance bloggers and authors have personally experienced,

2. People propagate ideas put forward by one author until they become The Truth.

In other words, some of these ‘common wisdom’ personal finance – and, business – truisms are simply aimed at an audience who doesn’t need to get rich(er) quick(er) … and, following those ‘rules’ will ensure that they get exactly what they aim for: 40 years of hard work, followed by a ‘frugal retirement’ 😉

So it is for the myth of business control:

People start their business with the idea that they either have 100% ownership – or, perhaps a 50/50 founding partner – from Day 1 and fervently believe that they will retain this mythical ‘control’ over their business (hence their life) as long at they hold on to at least 51% of their business …

… and, if they should need some outside investment – in their minds, at least – it’s critical that they give away less than 50% of the equity in their company.

Steve voices this point of view very clearly:

You give up 51 % control and who is to say you will make any money at all?? the new controlling owners could eventually throw you to the street.I’ve seen that happen a few times.

Personally, if there is no other options than to go for outside investors to move forward, your better off not giving up any more than 20 to 30% control ever.

First let me break a little myth in this blog … the ‘myth’ that I think that it’s a good idea to hand over a chunk of your company to an investor … nothing could be further from the truth:

I believe (and, have stated) – that you need to have a VERY good reason to give ANY equity away (for reasons that I explained in Decision Point # 1 in this post).

But, once you have crossed that line – and, have exhausted Friends/Family/Fools who may invest token amounts for token equity (i.e. that 20% – 30% that Steve talks about) – you will find that control goes with the money NO MATTER WHAT THE NOMINAL % MAY BE that you agree to hand over (and, THE INVESTOR will decide that %, not you!) …

… if you don’t like the deal, then you will have to make do without the money.

Simple!

The tool that your investor will rely on is the Shareholders Agreement, where they will make sure that critical decisions (eg hiring/firing; purchases over – say – $10k; new capital raisings; etc.), at a bare minimum, will require unanimous approval of the board … naturally, the outside shareholders will expect to have a seat on that board.

So, at a minimum, a smart minority shareholder will effectively hold the power of veto over your business … and, the Shareholder’s Agreement allows plenty of scope to even provide them with effective control over the business, regardless of their shareholding (be it 20% or 80%).

BUT, and I stress this, as I said to Steve:

There are no hard and fast rules: feel free to find the ‘fool’ who will invest a significant amount without the ability to put you on the street if you don’t perform 😉

The new way to measure wealth …

brucewayne… well not exactly a new measure, more a new definition.

Let’s think about some stages of wealth:

1. Debt Wealthy

At some stage, after half a lifetime of struggle, you will most likely have a mortgage, a partially paid off car loan, some residual student loans, and probably a few credit card bills hanging around.

If you’ve come to this blog via the other personal finance blogs floating around, then this probably bothers you enough to want to do something about it …

… as for the rest, many will struggle with this debt until the day that they die.

But, not the Debt Wealthy!

These lucky few will have risen up the corporate or business ladder high enough that their income is enough to service this debt and a little more:

– They can finance their house, car, boat, and caravan/vacation home

– What they can’t finance, their job or business provides (car, phone, laptop, corporate dinners)

– They have enough left over for a domestic trip or two every year sitting up the back of the plane,

– And, enough to eat and clothe themselves well, and to educate their children.

Their only problem – one that they choose never to voice, yet the one that has the bread-winner tossing and turning in their sleep every so often – is the ‘what if” …

… what if:

– They lose their job/business?

– They get sick?

– They get divorced?

They have no plan other than hoping for the best … and, for many, this is enough and for the rest …

… well, sh*t happens 😉

2. Rent Wealthy

But, for a lucky few – and, never through saving but always through Their Big Lucky Break – a huge wind-fall gain comes in; it could be:

– Selling their business

– Retiring (or being retrenched) with a huge Golden Parachute

– Winning the lottery or the Inheritance Jackpot

Presuming that they understand how to deal with this situation and don’t go crazy [AJC: reading this blog should help], they can probably:

– Finally stop working

– Begin to live their Life’s Purpose

– Pay off all of their debts (houses, cars, etc.)

… and, they should still be Rent Wealthy … a really nice stage of life, because they should have enough passive income (again, if they don’t go crazy) to rent whatever they want, whenever they want it; for example, they can rent:

– Seats somewhere towards the pointy end of the plane (or, even by charter),

– Hotel rooms anywhere in the world that come with at least a few stars,

– A Really Nice Convertible for a drive in the country once or twice a year,

– Time on the golf course as often as they want

… and, the list can be virtually endless.

I should know, because with $7 million I am Rent Wealthy 🙂

3. Buy Wealthy

Of course, if their Big Windfall is really an Obscenely Big Windfall, then a Really Lucky Minority becomes wealthy enough to buy everything that I can rent, either in whole (or, in multiples if they are Oprah) or in parts (eg fractional ownership):

– They own their own personal jet either outright or by fractional ownership,

– They have one or more vacation homes (owned in full or fractionally) around the world,

– They own at least one Really Nice Convertible or share ownership of a few,

– They have memberships at one (or many) Really Nice Private Golf Clubs.

The interesting thing about all of these stages is that they have one thing in common …

… can you guess what that might be?

You are much more comfortable at the top end of each stage than you may be at the bottom of it!

At the bottom, you are always trying to keeping up with The Jones (you know, the ones who can borrow, rent, or buy much more comfortably than you). Others think you are fine, in reality, you are struggling:

– to pay the mortgage, if you are Debt Wealthy

– to pay the bills for all of those discretionary expenses, if you are Rent Wealthy

– to pay for the maintenance and upkeep of all that stuff you own, if you are Buy Wealthy

So, what’s the lesson, other than a cute observation?

It’s simply this:

When you consider your Life’s Purpose, don’t pop yourself into the bottom of the next stage.

Instead, hold yourself back either permanently or until you have enough passive income to drive you to the ‘sweet spot’ of the next stage.

Aim toward the mid-to-upper part of the stage that you think may be enough for you …

… for example: for me, Rent Wealthy is plenty 😉

How about you?