Which side of zero to gear?

The best way to give up your ‘day job’ is to watch my Live Show this Thursday @ 8pm CST (9pm EST / 6pm PST) at http://ajcfeed.com ….

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A couple of weeks ago I wrote a pair of articles about real-estate: the ‘$7million Real Estate’ Question and Rule.

The first part of the shared title was an obvious reference to how I made my first $7 mill. of which the majority was made in real-estate … not directly in business, as many assume – but, certainly ‘fueled’ by an income generated by two (then mediocre) small businesses diverted towards RE purchases and mortgage payments rather than to my spending ‘wants’.

These articles seemed to ‘flush out’ of hiding the RE enthusiasts from the 7m7y Community!

One of those was Luis who is a 7 Millionaires … In Training! Final 15 applicant and he asked (as a comment to the first of the two articles):

How close to positive is close enough? How do you calculate against vacancies?

Should we expect 2 months out of the year which we would have to pay the entire mortgage?

Lastly, would you stay away from areas that are under rent control laws?

I should warn you in advance: I don’t always answer questions left by readers left as comments or sent in as e-mails; sometimes I let them know that I feel the question deserves a follow-up post, as I told Luis in this case, and sometimes I am simply not expert enough to proffer specific advice.

If so, simply diarize for 45 to 60 days (as I told Luis) and contact me if you don’t see a response within that period …

… I NEVER use “I’ll get back to you” as a tactic to get out of answering … if I don’t have direct experience in the specific area of a question, I will say so.

Back to Luis

The first part of his question relates to the whole concept of positive gearing and negative gearing … in my opinion, one of the worst-handled subjects in real-estate …

… in fact, I have never seen as much rubbish written about any investing subject (except maybe diversification and 401k’s) as I have about negative gearing!

Generally, the RE [Real-Estate] Guru’s fall into two camps:

The Argument For Negative Gearing

Those promoting negative gearing say this allows you to buy more real-estate for greater capital appreciation. The more property appreciates and the less that you put in, the greater your cash-on-cash return.

Here’s why:

Negative gearing implies that your expenses on the real-estate (your mortgage payments; repairs and maintenance; insurance payments; and the like) are greater than your income (rent received).

To a great extent, you can ‘control’ the amount of the ‘negatively geared’ short-fall simply by ‘dialling’ up/down the amount of capital that you put into the property (usually more quickly by way of a deposit, or more slowly through making larger Principle & Interest payments)

Lower deposits generally mean higher mortgage payments, therefore you are ‘controlling’ more real-estate with less of your own money.

This may mean that your cash-on-cash returns get higher and higher as property appreciates with less of your own cash (and, more of the bank’s committed). You can use that cash to buy more and more of these appreciating properties.

But, there’s a downside: as you borrow more and more from the bank against any specific property (by putting in a lower deposit yourself) your interest bill goes up … your rent stays the same (your tenants won’t pay higher than market rates just because you get a big interest bill from the bank!) … you may make a loss on the property.

But, you get it all back – and more – on the capital appreciation on the property. Don’t you?

Amazing how the proponents of negative gearing are suddenly quiet when the ‘RE bubble pops’ … not, to mention your ability to grow your portfolio will depend upon how much monthly loss you can fund.

The Argument For Positive Gearing

Those promoting positive gearing say “buying a property is an investment … investments should make you money, not lose you money”.

So they suggest looking in areas where rents are relatively high, stable and growing.

They recommend buying fewer properties, putting in a bigger deposit, and letting your rents cover the costs and pay down the property.

Not only do you have a buffer (and build an even bigger one over time) against market crashes, vacancies, interest rate hikes, and unexpected repair bills, but you build up a nice little pot of equity if these properties also rise in value (as they surely will, given a long enough holding period?).

The problem is that these types of properties (i.e. the ones that generate a decent rental return) don’t tend to be in high appreciation areas, whereas properties that appreciate nicely tend not to produce a great rental return.

So, it seems that real-estate investing is a trade-off: do you want faster appreciation or do you want a greater income?

If you are young and are investing to build great wealth – and, are prepared to take greater risk – then you may be chasing higher appreciation and may have the income to carry some short-term (you hope!) losses.

On the other hand, if you are approaching retirement, you may want to be selling some of your portfolio, using the proceeds to jack up the equity (by paying off some of the mortgage, hence lowering your largest monthly expense) – keeping some as a cash reserve against vacancies and expenses – of each remaining property so that you can live off the proceeds. An income that should rise roughly in accordance with inflation … nice.

Here’s how I look at it:

I am neither for nor against negative gearing … ideally, I see absolutely no reason to take a loss. But, this can come in two ways:

1. By buying a property that doesn’t produce enough income, when (if I just looked a little harder, negotiated a little better, added a little more post-purchase value, chose a different class of RE or a different location) I could have bought something with similar appreciation that didn’t produce a monthly loss, or

2. By passing on a property that had great potential because I didn’t want to suffer a little short-term loss.

Both are dumb reasons to buy (or pass) on an opportunity …

… to me, the monthly short-fall or excess (if i don’t actually need the money to live off NOW) is just a part of the investment in my future.

If negative, then I am just increasing the capital that I am allocating to that property … if positive, then I am calculating whether that return could be used better elsewhere by pulling some capital (by refinancing) out of the property.

In other words, to me, a monthly excess/shortfall is just ONE part of the overall investment equation and there’s absolutely no reason to be bloody-minded one way or the other.

Let me leave you with a couple of final thoughts:

i) For those proponents of negative gearing who justify their methods on the basis that “you get a tax deduction on the loss, so Uncle Sam is helping to pay for your future” … get a life. Let the tax deduction be an effect of a business decision taken for other reasons, not the cause! Why lose 70% just so that Uncle Same can ‘donate’ 30%?

ii) Sometimes a negatively geared property can become positively geared just through tax benefits: depreciation is a great one to have available as it is tied to this property (so, if one works; maybe 100 will work for you just as well?) whereas the deduction on negative gearing only works when you have enough outside income to make use of it, so it may only work on one or two properties at a time.

So, in which camp do you sit, and why?

Millionaire by 30?

The best way to become a Millionaire by 30 is to watch my Live Show this Thursday @ 8pm CST (9pm EST / 6pm PST) at http://ajcfeed.com ….

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Recently I wrote a post that I consider to be one of the critical “you either get it or you don’t” pieces that will determine whether you will ‘make it’ or not …. if you haven’t seen it yet, fully understood it, or hotly debated it (with me, yourself, or your mother) then I highly recommend that you go and get to it!

Anyhow, Jim wrote a comment:

This video was suggested from one of my posts and I think it gives a pretty good example of your premise. This is Douglas Andrew, author of Missed Fortune…

I watched the video … and, set it aside presuming that because it was so short, the one or two glaring errors (did you spot them?) would have been addressed in the full video (or a Douglas Andrews seminar) …

then I saw an article on My Money Blog:

The overall moral of this book review is that even though a book finds a publisher, it doesn’t mean the advice is accurate or applicable to you. The book Millionaire by Thirty: The Quickest Path to Early Financial Independence by Doug Andrews & Company appears to be very similar to the other Missed Fortune books by the same author. In fact, from reading the reviews all of these books seem to contain the exact same material.

Housing Prices Always Go Up, Take Out Largest Mortgage Possible!

“Do you rent? Rent is like throwing money down a black hole. It doesn’t matter how much money you have saved or how long you plan on staying in the same place, you should always try to buy a home. If you aren’t going to stay very long you can simply get an adjustable-rate loan with no down payment. Housing prices always go up, so you can enjoy the low interest for a couple of years, and then sell and make a nice profit.

If you are really smart and disciplined, you can even get an interest-only or negative-amortization loan because then you won’t build up any equity at all. Accumulating home equity is bad. Anytime you have any, you should take out a loan on it and invest it somewhere else, like a second home.”

The above are all the dangerous generalizations about real estate contained in this book. Newsflash… Renting can be the best option for many people. Housing prices do not always go up. Thousands of people who bought a home and now have to sell after a few years will have lost tens of thousands of dollars compared to if they had rented.

Summary
Many of the books I read may not be brilliant, but they contain generally good ideas and target a specific type of reader. However, this book is one that could actually hurt more people than it helps. This book is just plain misleading. It would be wonderful if home prices always went up and there was an investment where I could never pay taxes, have no downside risk, and get stock-like returns, but unfortunately both are too good to be true. I’ve tried to lay out my arguments for this briefly, but if you want a better description read the detailed reviews here and here. Clever Dude also shared his thoughts here.

Short version: Don’t read it, don’t buy it, don’t even borrow it from the library

Firstly, I agree with My Money Blog on the home ownership issue to a degree … owning your own home is not always the smartest FINANCIAL option. 

However, here is where I differ: for MOST people, it’s the only way that they will get financially free for lots of psychological/emotional reasons, more than strictly financial. Also, I do agree with the ‘forced saving’ and ‘forced appreciation’ that it can give you (provided that you do something with the appreciation … you don’t want to die ‘house rich / cash poor’!).

The ONLY time you shouldn’t invest in your own home, is to invest in income-producing property instead*.

And, while it’s true that real-estate doesn’t always go up, if you have a 20 – 30 year outlook and can lock in circa 6% interest for up to 30 years (another reason why your own home can be a good idea) … I think the future is exceedingly bright.

So, it is with a little surprise that I find myself actually siding with Doug – warts and all (!) – on this one …

But, I don’t agree with Doug that you shouldn’t have ANY equity in your own home (again, strictly financially speaking, he is probably correct), but I have proposed the 20% Rule that says that you should have no more than 20% of your Net Worth invested in your own home at any one time.

This rule, when understood and applied properly, accomplishes two key things:

1. Let’s you get/stay invested in your own home, but

2. Ensures that you maintain enough of your Net Worth in outside investments.

… without the screaming holes in the get-rich-quick schemes promoted by the ‘nothing down’ brigade!

So, go back and read all the posts that I have linked to … as I said at the very beginning, this could be the key to your wealth …

* or to invest in some other high-reward activity (e.g. buying/starting a business; leveraged
  investments; etc.) ... although, I would still prefer that you ALSO buy you own home 'just in case'

Play the match game …

Here’s an ‘investing match game’ for you to try … simply match the active investment actions in Column A with the investment vehicle of choice in Column B (you must use each word in Column A once, and once only … you may use any word/s in Column B as often as you like):

Investment Actions Investment Choice
Rehab’ing / Flipping   Real-Estate
     
Mortgaging / Leveraging   Motor Vehicle
     
No Money Down   Business Assets

Now, is this a trick question? If you’re honest, you probably answered:

Investment Actions Investment Choice
Rehab’ing / Flipping   Real-Estate
     
Mortgaging / Leveraging   Real-Estate
     
No Money Down   Real-Estate

… after all, these are all ways to make money with real-estate; so did you pass the little test?

Good, because here is how they might work:

1. Rehab’ing, then flipping (quickly on-selling) real-estate

You can purchase a run-down property in a good location (usually a small house, condo, duplex, triplex or perhaps a run-down apartment complex), provide some of your own labor (or try and find a general contractor willing to work cheap) to fix up the kitchen and bathroom/s, apply a little paint and some new carpet, and … voila … you get to re-list the property and resell it for a price that covers your purchase price + rehab + profit (both yours and the general contractor). At least that how it used to be done – and, will again, sooner or later. Rehab’ing and flipping can be a useful way to generate a small lump of cash (also known as ‘chunking‘).

2. Mortgaging real-estate

You can purchase some real-estate, perhaps putting in a deposit of 10% – 20% and then using the bank’s money to pay for the balance. You can either live in the property or rent it out to help cover the cost of the mortgage (which you should usually fix so that you can be certain of your future costs). Since the mortgage payments do NOT rise with inflation (if you were smart enough to fix them), but rents do … over the long run you will earn an income and an eventual capital gain as the property increases in value. Buying and holding is a simple strategy for long-term wealth.

3. No Money Down

This is where you find a creative way to avoid paying a deposit (perhaps you don’t have the cash?) and then work with one of the other two strategies. There are people who swear by this method and others who say that there is no ethical way to use this strategy in a repeatable fashion. In either case, you use tools, like assuming an existing loan, and/or seller carry-back financing and/or finding a partner to avoid the necessity for fronting the 20% deposit yourself.

Of course, this little primer on real-estate was just a little ruse to stop you from peeking ahead

… you see, even though I have also invested in real-estate in many different ways, here’s how I would match up those columns a little differently, based upon some things that I have actually done over the years:

Investment Actions Investment Choice
Rehab’ing / Flipping   Motor Vehicle
     
Mortgaging Leveraging   Business Assets
     
No Money Down   Business Assets

i) Rehab’ing, then flipping a motor vehicle

Just out of college, I landed a high-flying job in the hot IT sector (yes, we had computers in the 80’s … just bigger) … when all of my friends were buying their first new car, I was selling mine, to buy …

… a 10 year old Porsche 911 (the particularly ‘hot’ S-model) for just $13,000 (she was a beauty, but more exhaust fumes ended up inside the car than outside … helps to explain the loss of a few memory cells).

The trouble is that she was that horrible bright/lime green that the German engineers thought was oh so appealing … yuk. I hired a compressor and bought some paint and materials … and, a friend who (said that he) had some experience spray painting, helped me to strip and sand the car’s exterior to bare metal then we spray painted it (in his backyard garage) a beautiful red … acrylic. We used over-the-counter enamel spray cans in a matching red to change the color of the interior of the doors, cabin, and engine/trunk because those areas were too hard to sand smooth and polish to a shine.

When we were finished the car ‘looked’ a million dollars …. needless to say I flipped it pretty quicky … selling it for $26,000. That was a decent profit for a not-long-out-of-college kid in the early 1980’s!

2. Mortgaging business assets

I mentioned in a previous post that I left my high-flying job just shy of 10 years to join my father in a very small finance business (just me, my father, and one administrative clerk); it didn’t perform very well, not even covering salaries. However, when my father got sick, I decided to buy out the family, leaving me $30k in debt.

The only problem was, that being a finance company, the business needed funding – bank funding, and a lot of it. The best solution that I could come up with was to find a bank who would treat the business assets (the ‘paper’ that we were funding) just like real-estate: I had no trouble finding a major bank willing to lend me 75% against those assets at a middling-to-high interest rate (leaving me to find the 25% deposit … by way of a partner whom I found then later bought out). The bank took no other security other than my personal guarantee … now, I have banks lining up to fund millions at up to 95% of those same assets (sub-prime or no sub-prime!) with no additional security and, now at an excellent rate.

3. No Money Down

Obviously, finding a partner for that business was a ‘no money down’ technique as applied to business, rather than real-estate. However, I came to the USA to sell some software to a related business. What I found was a business that had been family-owned for 50 years, allowed to run down, then been purchased by a large multinational for a ridiculous sum.

Naturally, the part of the business that I was interested in was not operating profitably, so instead of selling them my software and services to help them ‘fix’ the business themselves, I provided a cost-benefit that showed that they should give me majority share – for nothing – in return for taking over, and re-engineering its operations.

My team and I turned that business around in just a few, short months, and I sold my share to another public company for a huge gain (what’s the return on ‘no money down’? Infinite!) just 2 years later.

The point here is that money can be made anywhere, in any manner … all you need to apply is the NEED to achieve a certain level of financial result, the VISION to see a way to get there, and the PERSISTENCE to see it through …

… failure to do so will NEVER be for a lack of opportunity!

The $7million Real-Estate Rule

Yesterday’s post, The $7million Real-Estate Question(s), was aimed at the first-time investor, perhaps stuck on making their first real-estate investment (not home) purchase decision by the – perhaps too many – factors that they would need to consider.

In essence, what I said is: in a commodity market, buy the commodity at commodity prices … and wait!

Wait for what?

Ideally, forever … but, at least until the values have improved.

But, what kind of real-estate are commodities?

Houses and apartments in most areas are commodities; small multi-units (duplex / triplex / quadraplex) can be, too. Anywhere where there are lots of them near each other …

… preferably lots for sale, and fewer vacant [AJC: Too many vacancies can show an area that’s declining in population and/or jobs (with job growth being, by far, the most important of the two) … we don’t want that!].

Also, for residential property (that you don’t intend to live in) you really need to go for an area that will/can appreciate as it can be very difficult – if not impossible – to get them to cashflow-positive on a reasonable deposit (say, 10% – $20%).

Even so, my first two $7million Questions showed you the right type of market to buy in … which is, right now!

But, when evaluating more complex real-estate transactions, such as: commercial apartments (6 and above); offices and factories of all sizes … surely the The $7million Real-Estate Questions are not enough?

And, surely you are right …

These types of properties are sold as ‘businesses’ in that they have:

a. Income (or rent)

b. Expenses (or outgoings)

c. Taxes (unfortunately)

d. Profit/Loss (or Net Operating Income)

I will run you through how to analyse some of these types of property in future posts; for now, I want to tell you one way to assess these types of Investors’ Real-Estate that is NOT as important as you may be lead to believe, and another way that is MUCH MORE IMPORTANT.

Because commercial property runs at a profit (or loss) and has an Income Statement, people tend to buy (and sell) these types of rel-estate on the basis of their financial statements alone …

… and, not on the sale of comparable buildings around!

This is critical to understand – as it is totally opposite for the types of residential real-estate that most of us are used to.

The second thing to realize is that these buildings sell on a variety of bases, but usually the ‘expert’ real-estate acquirer will assess the Net Operating Income during Due Diligence and buy for a multiple of that … there is usually a multiplier [AJC: that the real-estate books that you read will all say is around 10 … but, these days in many of the hotter markets in the US and overseas, it will be as high as 12 to 16 – or even more when things get crazy].

This is called a Capitalization Rate or simply Cap. Rate.

Yippee!

This is just another way of saying that when you buy the building, it will return 10% of the Purchase Price (for a cap. rate of 10) by way of Net Operating Income (which should improve as you increase rents).

A larger Cap. Rate when you talk “times” (or smaller when you express it as a %) is BAD for purchasing (but, great for selling if you can increase the rents a lot!); here’s why:

A 12 times Cap. Rate means that a $1,000,000 property will only return (NOI or Profit) a little over 8%

A 16 times Cap. Rate means that a $1,000,000 property will only return (NOI or Profit) a little over 6%

So, a serious investor will pull out all the numbers, take a look at the Cap. Rate and make a decision whether to buy (obviously, there will be a lot of other factors … this will drive the financial decision).

How will they typically make that decision?

Well, they’ll compare the % return to what the cost of funds are … if they can make enough to cover the mortgage … then they’re in. So, with a Cap. Rate of 8% and Mortgage Interest rates at, say, 7%, it’s slim … but, they’re in front!

Cap. Rates are really useful, when you can a property for, say, $1,000,000 – add $50,000 of renovations that allow you to increase rents by 10% … all of a sudden, your property is now worth $1,100,000 – a 100% Return on your $50k rehab. investment!

But the Cap. Rate alone doesn’t give you the true picture for the original purchase decision … there’s a MUCH better way to look at the financial decision … first, here’s why:

A. Your investment in real-estate is only the deposit – typically 25% (plus Closing Costs) on commercial

B. The Bank’s investment in real-estate is the mortgage – typically 75%

But, you get the ‘return’ or the Net Operating Income on the entire building

Because of this wonderful benefit of buy-and-hold, income-producing real-estate, the ‘right’way to value an investment is by it’s return on what YOU put in: it’s called your Cash-on-Cash Return.

So if you put in 25% deposit on a $1,000,000 building with a Cap. Rate that’s returning 1% over the mortgage rate, then you are getting:

1. 8% return for the 25% that you put in, plus

2. A ‘free’ 1% for each matching 25% that the Bank puts in – since they put in the other 75% that’s another 3% effective return.

All of a sudden that ‘small’ 8% return that seems only a little above the bank’s interest rate of 7% swells into a real 11% Return on your money [AJC: most investors will look for a return on their money (in real-estate) in the 10% – 20% range; this requirement will increase as Mortgage Interest Rates increase] … and, we haven’t even counted on any appreciation, yet (!):

i) As Rents increase, so does your return because YOU don’t have to put in any more money … inflation does all the work for you!

Example: if interest rates remain the same (and, they will because you DID fix them, right?), but the rents go up a mere 4% per year over costs (and, they will because you DID put a ratchet clause in the lease, right?), in just three years the building’s 8% return will swell to 9% …

… and your cash-on-cash return will jump to 9% + (3 x 2%) = 15% – try getting thatin CD’s, Bonds or Stock Funds!

ii) As the building appreciates, so does your future return, even though you can’t cash on this right now (unless you refinance, of course).

Example: If cap rates don’t change (that, unfortunately, is up to the market), the 4% increase in rents will ALSO increase the value of the property by 4%. Which sounds great, until you realize that you only put up 25% of that …

… so, YOUR return increases by 16% – try doing that with Stocks!

Now, how does a 30% return (half now, half when you sell) sound to you? And, what happens if you hold for a little longer?

You do the math!

The $7million Real-Estate Question

I’ve posted recently on the importance of real-estate to your portfolio …

… only ‘important’ of course, if you intend to retire on more than the Pauper’s Million 😉 Well, at least important enough that you probably need to find a good reason NOT to invest in it (e.g. can’t stand the stuff; market is too crappy; can’t find a deposit; etc.)

So, how do you tell a good real-estate investment from a bad one? There are so many variables:

1. Purchase Price – This varies by type of property and area

2. Deposit Required – This varies by type of property and Lender

3. Mortgage Repayments – This varies by type of property and Lender

4. Comparable Returns – What would other investments produce?

5. Comparable Risks – How risky is this investment v. other uses that you put your money to?

For the new real-estate investor, these factors are almost impossible to accurately assess, so investing in real-estate usually comes down to:

(i) What kind of real-estate appeals to me as an investor? Residential – Houses; Residential – Condos; Residential – Multifamily; Commercial – Apartments; Commercial – Offices; Commercial – Retail; Vacant Land; and the list goes on

(ii) What area/s am I interested in? For most real-estate ‘noobs’, that means their local neighbourhood, town, city, or possibly state.

(iii) What price range can I invest in? For most this is dictated by Type of Property, Deposit Available, Income available to service the loan, and the Lender’s Rules

Which is all well and good, but here is how most real-estate investors ACTUALLY invest:

They see something that they like and can afford, and:

a) They buy if they are not too chicken, or

b) They pass if they are … well, you know … cluck, cluck cluck.

Since, I am usually scratching in the yard myself, please don’t consider this an insult 🙂 I actually think that this is a perfectly reasonable way to buy real-estate IF you first (more bullet-points!) ask the $7million Questions:

A. Is the market off its high?

B. Do you at least understand the type of property that you are looking at – and, the area – and consider it a reasonable buy (i.e. you don’t think you are paying ‘top dollar’ to get in)?

C. Are Interest rates off their highs?

D. Can you can afford the payments?

E. Ideally: Will the property be cash-flow positive (or very close to it)?

F. Can you (will you!) hold on to the property for a very, very long time?

Here is the basic principle:

Certain types of real-estate (certainly the entry-level types that most beginners would look at) are virtual commodities … you can pretty easily assess their value (and, potential rents) by looking up a few databases (Zillow, RealtyTrac, Loopnet, Rent.com) and/or newspapers.

There are more intelligent people than you and I out there who actually know how to assess this type of stuff … just trust a ‘commodity market’ to price reasonably accurately and you can’t buy too wrong.

One of my first acquisitions was a simple little condo … the market had been low but was starting to appreciate (how did I know, my 20 year-old nephews told me … they had just bought two condo’s in the same area!).

I didn’t know very much about the values, but I found a condo that was going to auction (actually, the most common way that condo’s were sold in this particular location) and the real-estate agency was from out of town, so I figured that they would attract fewer buyers than an well-advertised local agent would.

The only other keen buyer appeared to be a young builder: I could tell by his overalls, ass sticking out, and his trusty tape measure in hand.

So, what did I do? I just bid at the auction until it came down to just him and I … and, I kept bidding slightly more than him, until he stopped bidding!

I figured that HE knew how to do his sums and HE would not overpay … so, the max. I could overpay is by the amount over his bid that I would have to bid. Risky: you betch’a! Did it work: you betch’a!

His advantage: any rehab would be ‘at builder’s cost’ (I at least knew this would relatively minor … kitchen / bathroom / carpet / paint / lights / knobs). My advantage: Time … I could afford to hold.

In fact, we still own this condo and it has done very nicely thanks … it’s the only single condo left in our portfolio.

But, you could do even better: if you are prepared to do what most other (lazy) people won’t do – which is turn over a lot of rocks and put in a lot of low-ball offers before one is accepted – then you might actually out-smart the so-called ‘smart investors’.

So, how and when to get started?

For those who are following along, you will realize that the current market satisfies $7m Questions A. and C. … a bit of work will help you decide on $7m Question B. … and, your Lender will pretty quickly sort you out on $7m Question D.

$7m Question E. is the one that will give you the most difficulty … as you may not know how to estimate the costs (loss of rental; utilities; Repairs and Maintenance; etc. etc. … if that’s the case, don’t worry TOO much:

TIME (which is why you hold for a long, long time) will cure most ills … and, my $7m Questions … will protect you from disaster.

Oh, and do JUST ONE ONE MORE THING:

Lock in the current low interest rate for as long as the lender will let you!

That will help TIME help the MARKET do its thing … which is get the property/s to appreciate and the rents to rise 🙂

Now, if you can do the analysis that a ‘seasoned’ real-estate investor can do … well, go do it … you will make more money / faster, if you do.

But don’t let fear and ‘paralysis by analysis’ stop you … just use the $7 Million Dollar Questions, and …

Good luck!

Will you ever put a penny in your 401k again?

I stuck my neck out, and made a candid admission; as expected, I copped a little flak – after all, I admitted to the world that I don’t even know how much is in my own Retirement Accounts 😉 Whoo boy!

What surprised me is that I didn’t lose readers … I even gained some; Josh pointed to the reason why in his comment to that post:

Controversial? This article was absolutely controversial and that’s why I come here. If you want extraordinary results you need to make controversial moves, a.k.a “taking risk”.

Thanks, Josh. Here’s how I see it:

I’m not a risk-taker, far from it … to me, the so-called controversial move is usually not “a.k.a. taking risk” …

… blindly following Conventional Wisdom can be the riskiest move of all because you may unwittingly be risking a good proportion of your financial future!

To prove my point, and (hopefully) change the way that you look at investing in your 401k forever, let’s take this example from another comment to that same post, by Alex:

This strikes me, in a good way. I am about to be eligible for the 401k at my company. Normal people who cannot think of anything else better (and safer) than sticking their money in the funds.

Correct me if I’m wrong, what you are really saying is: instead of saving diligently and sticking $30,000 into a fund, maybe that same $30,000 can be used as a down payment for a rental property that will both appreciate and generate cash flow.

Now, I cannot advise Alex – or anybody else – on what to do with their money … that’s the job of financial advisers.

But, isn’t it Rule # 1 of Personal Finance to FIRST PUT YOUR MONEY IN THE 401K TO GET THE COMPANY MATCH?

After all, isn’t that FREE MONEY?

If the employer matches your entire contribution, aren’t you getting a 100+% return on your investment … impossible to match anywhere else?

Absolutely, which is why almost every personal finance writer (be it books, magazines, or blogs) recommends to at least invest to the limit of your employer’s matching contribution …

…. except for one problem, this thinking doesn’t hold up to scrutiny!

You see, your money is in the 401K for the long-run (isn’t it?) … your contribution – and your employer’s match is only a Year One issue; over the long run, your Contribution (with the employer’s match) will tend to a much, much lower return.

Alex’s question is: will that $30,000 be better off in the 401k or in a rental property?

The only way to find out is to run some numbers over the expected life of your ‘plan’ to see what happens … fortunately, just like a cooking show, I have prepared the numbers for you and here are some very interesting results:

SCENARIO # 1 – Assumptions

A. Let’s simply take Alex’s question ‘as is’ i.e. make a one-off $30,000 contribution to the employer’s 401k:

We will assume that the employer is VERY GENEROUS and match 100% of the entire $30,000; and we will assume that the markets are equally generous and compound an 8% return for us – tax free – for 30 years.

B. Alternatively, we can put that entire $30,000 as a 20% deposit against a $150,000 house; and we will assume that it’s value increases by a more conservative 6% (also compound) each year. We will also assume that Capital Gains Tax (15%) is payable.

SCENARIO # 1 – Results

1. We know that in Year 1, the employer’s 100% match provides a 100% return on the 401k; but, in year two that return drops to 58% (the employer’s $30,000 ‘match’ effectively becomes a $15,000 ‘return’ over each of the two years … then add the 8% Net Managed Fund Return).

This rate drops each year – because we are looking for the equivalent compound return, it drops fast – so that it only takes 9 years for the overall compound return to drop below 20% and by Year 18 through to Year 30, it averages a compound return of ‘just’ 11% – 12%; still almost twice real-estate, though!

2. The total amount available to cash out of the 401k at the end of the 30 years is $559,000

3. However, if the entire $30,000 was used as a deposit on real-estate, even with a 15% Capital Gains tax on any increase, the total 30 year Capital Return will be $713,000.

That’s a 28% advantage by putting the $30,000 into real-estate instead of the 401K …

… a greater overall $ return even though the % growth was half that of the 401k!

How can this be so?

The power of leverage (we borrowed 80% on the real-estate and nothing on the 401K except for the employer’s Year 1 ‘match’).

But, wait, there’s more!

The property is an investment property (if you choose to live in it, simply figure that you pay yourself a ‘market rent’ and these conclusions still hold true) … so, we can assume:

That we fix the mortgage at 5.25% (that’s $8,000 a month), and average a 5% rental return based on current market value (means that our ending-rent grows to nearly $36,000 a year!), and assume that 25% of rents will go towards expenses (other than the mortgage) and vacancies (a useful Rule of Thumb).

4. The net income (with any ‘surplus’ over mortgage and expenses being held on CD at a 30 year average of just 5%) is an additional $217,000 for the real-estate option.

Taken together, here’s how it looks:

 Total Return:       
       
 401k   $    559,036  CGT+Income   CGT Only  
 Real-Estate   $    930,476 66% 28%

So Alex, by (a) forgoing the exceedingly generous employer match in your 401k and (b) putting that $30,000 into a pretty tame residential real-estate investment instead, your overall 30 year return increases by 66%

Now, this is not how the ‘real-world’ usually works:

We don’t usually invest in one lump sum … we usually make annual contributions to our 401k of 10% – 20% of our salary. So, how does The Alex Plan work under this ‘real world’ scenario?

Let’s see …

 SCENARIO # 2 – Assumptions

A. Let’s adjust Alex’s question to instead make an annual contribution of 10% of an assumed annual salary of $50,000 (4% inflation-adjusted, so that the contributions also increase by 4% each year)  to the employer’s 401k:

We will assume that the employer will remain generous and 100% match the employee’s contribution each year; and we will assume that the markets are very generous and compund an 8% return for us – tax free – for 30 years.

B. Alternatively, we can simply put each year’s contribution in a bank account (earning a paltry average of 5% over the entire 30 year period):

When we save around $30,000 [Year 6] , we take that money out of the bank as use it as a 20% deposit against a $150,000 house; and we will assume that it’s value increases by 6% (also compound) each year. We will also assume that Capital Gains Tax is payable.

Once be buy the house, out bank account is depleted, but we are still saving 10% of the employee’s salary, so we start to build the bank account up again … of course, similar properties get more expensive, so we wait until we have saved around $38,000 [Year 11] as 20% deposit and buy our SECOND property … then we repeat: saving around $46,000 [Year 16] for property THREE, and around $56,000 [Year 21] for property FOUR and final.

Why final? Well, we are within 10 years of retirement, so the BEST PLACE for our final 9 year’s worth of annual contributions is probably the 401k … 9 years is simply not long enough to chance the property market (for this reason, we could even be really conservative and also forgo the purchase of the 4th property).

SCENARIO # 2 – Results

1. The numbers are too complicated to measure the effect of the employer’s match on the hypothetical return … but, the overall numbers are far more important.

2. The total amount available to cash out of the 401k at the end of the 30 years is now $1.8 Million (now, you know why you want to make annual contributions to your investment plan!).

3. With the purchase/s of the 4 properties (the last of which we hold for just 10 years), even with a 15% Capital Gains tax on any increase, the total 30 year Capital Return on the FOUR properties (plus the final 9 years of 401k savings) PLUS the net income for each of the FOUR properties, will be $2.4 Million.

That’s a 32% advantage by putting 10% of your salary into real-estate instead of the 401K …

 Total Return:   
     
 401k   $  1,833,746  CGT+Income 
 Real-Estate   $  2,412,898 32%

Before you say, well 32% is just too much work to worry about … you’re not thinking like a millionaire. Over the 20 years, you will have built up enough equity in properties #1, #2, and probably #3 to also purchase properties #5, # 6 and possibly #7. And, so it goes until rich …

So, Alex, will you invest in your 401k? If you have a lump sum … I’d guess definitely not?

But, for your long-term savings plan: the 401k is certainly more convenient … but, is that convenience ‘worth’ $600,000 (or – a lot – more!) to you?

That’s only a choice that you – and, aspiring followers of The Alex Plan – can make 🙂

Contrary to popular opinion, paying off your mortgage is the dumbest move you can make …

I wrote a post a long while ago … actually, it was my 5th-ever post – some say that I should have stopped there 😉 – about the classic Rent or Buy dilemma for your own home … and, I just (!) received an interesting comment to that Post from Joy:

That’s the silliest thing I’ve ever heard – borrow against your house (aquire more debt) to invest??? Paying off your house early and being debt-free allows you to do whatever you want with your income, THAT’s truly the way to wealth.

Now, Joy is not alone: I recently read a post by Boston Gal on her blog that talks about Suze Orman’s  advice which also is to pay off your home loan early:

Believe me, I have thought about trying to pay off my mortgage early. But since I have an investment condo which is mortgage free (yeah! paid that one off in 2007) I have been a bit hesitant to use my current excess cash to pay extra toward my primary home’s principal.

 Now, this sparked a whole series of comments, including this comment from ‘Chris in Boston’ who said:

This is interesting. Usually you hear from personal finance people that its best to take on the longest fixed rate mortgage you can afford. This allows you to tie up as little cash in a non liquid asset as possible (slowly building equity). Also allows you to protect that pile of cash from the effects of inflation. The house is bought in today’s dollars and paid off over 30 years in today’s dollars.

Sure, when you own a property you have to compare it to owning any other investment – cost/benefit; risk/reward; all the usual stuff. You also need to compare the costs of holding it (including interest) against the costs of investing elsewhere.

But, this last piece in Chris’ comment is THE critical point: “the house is bought in today’s dollars and paid off over 30 years in today’s dollars”.

You see, the one thing that makes owing a property, even your own home, very different to any other investment is that it can be easily financed … almost completely (remember the sub-prime crisis?).

This leads to a whole swag of benefits that I don’t think that you can get anywhere else … benefits that simply cannot be ignored by the typical saver / investor.

Here’s why …

When you mortgage a house, you and the bank enter into a partnership (typically the bank is an 80% partner and you are a 20% partner going in), but you are not in the same position:

1. You have access to ALL of the upside … so as inflation and market conditions push the value of the property upward over time, you gain 100% of the increase, the bank gets none of it.

Let’s say you buy a property for $100,000 today; you put in $20,000 deposit and the bank puts in $80,000 as an interest-only loan (forget closing costs for now) … in 20 years, if it doubles to $200,000, your share of the ‘partnership’ is now $120,000 and the bank’s is still $80,000.

You are now 60/40 majority owner of the real-estate venture! In fact, even as 20% ‘owner’ you have total control over all the decisions related to the real-estate – as long as you pay the bank on time.

2. Sure you pay the bank interest on their $80,000 share … but this is fixed (you did take out a fixed interest rate, didn’t you?!).

At 8% interest rate that’s approximately $6,400 per year … this year.

Why only this year? Because the same inflation that is increasing the value of the house (and you get to keep 100% of that increase) also decreases the effective amount that you pay to the bank; as each year goes by, the bank gets less and less in real dollars and your salary goes up.

The price of bread, milk and gas may go up, but the bank’s interest rate never will because it’s fixed!

3. You either get 100% of the value for the payments that you make to the bank (call it ‘rent avoidance’ if you live in the property) or you take 100% of the income if you decide to rent it out … all as 20% minority ‘partner’ going in. The bank on the other hand, gets their $6,400 and ONLY their $6,400.

4. The government gives you tax breaks and incentives to do all of this!

Here is my advice …

Look at everything that you own as a business: if it’s your own home, separate the ownership of the property in your mind from it’s use …

… for example, even if it’s your own home, treat yourself as your own tenant and figure the rent that you would otherwise had to pay when doing the sums.

Then evaluate the investment against any other investment or ‘business’ … and ask yourself:

– What ‘business’ gives you pretty damn close to 100% control for only 20% initial investment?

– What ‘business’ lets you in for only 20% initial investment, but then gives you all of the upside?

– What ‘business’ gives you only one-time multiplier on your initial investment on the downside but a five-time multiplier on the upside?

– What ‘business’ grows in your favor (and not your “partner’s” favor) merely by the effects of inflation?

By all means, pay off you mortgage and your lines of credit as you reach your financial goals and are set to retire …. you have plenty of money and just don’t need the stress, right?

But, if you’re still trying to get rich(er) quick(er)?

If you own a home, don’t pay it off … use the upside to help you buy more and more of these wonderful, one-of-a-kind, almost-too-good-to-be-true ‘businesses’ …

If you have other sources of income (businesses, investments) don’t spend it or reinvest all of it … use some of the spare cash to help you buy more and more of these wonderful, one-of-a-kind, almost-too-good-to-be-true ‘businesses’ …

That’s my advice to you, and to Joy, but only take it if you want to be rich!

Too scared to buy? That's OK … just jump in, anyway!

With anything that has a big upside, there is usually the fear of the downside, but I say:

No pain, no gain!

Think back (or forward) to your first real-estate acquisition – it probably was (will be) your own home. 

Fear? Sure … in a ‘down market’ there are perhaps well-founded fears that prices could go even lower.

Does this mean that you shouldn’t buy a house? That’s up to you.

But, here’s what I think:

First, you should always seek out and listen to expert advice … that is advice that comes from:

(a) Somebody who understands the game – that would be a Realtor, and

(b) Somebody who has made a lot of money in real-estate – that would be me 😉

Follow what your Realtor says, but don’t be paralysed with fear …

If you find THE house that you like AND you can afford the payments, go ahead and BUY.

Just be sure to lock in a loooong (say, 35 year) mortgage at current rates (still a very low 6%).

Time – and low current interest rates (which is why you MUST lock in for as long as you can) – will ‘cure’ any mistakes that you do make … after all, mistakes can happen despite following all of the good advice that others will give you.

But, real-estate is (perhaps, surprisingly, to new investors) very forgiving if you have a long-term view …

And, I am a firm believer that owning your own home is the START of your path to wealth.

Even so, it’s OK to feel at least a little FEAR and TREPIDATION when you submit that offer …

… so that you will feel at least a little better, let me tell you about the real-estate transaction that scared me the most:

About 5 years ago, I decided to move offices. Even though I had already made some smaller real-estate investments, I had always rented my office space.

My accountant suggested that for this move, I should BUY my own office building!

Now, my business was just beginning to make  (still very, very little) money after years and years of losses, so you can understand my first words to my accountant: “Say what, Fool?” 😉

On top of that, the building that we had targeted was selling at auction … and, there were a ton of people at the on-site auction, all looking very intimidating and all looking like they wanted to – and, could afford to – buy … holy sh*t … scary stuff!

Now, I don’t recommend that anybody (bar an expert) buy at auction – just too many unknowns to deal with – but, I somehow ended up with this piece of real-estate for more than $1.25 million …

… and, it still needed another $500,000 in renovations and office fit-out before I could use it!

Long-story-short:

We bought the building with 25% down and we leased all of the renovations and fit-out.

I sweated every payment for the next couple of years, until the cash-flow in the business caught up with (and, thankfully, eventually overtook) the mortgage and lease payments.

Just a few short years later, I sold that business, then the building … I made a cool million dollars on the sale of the building alone; that’s $1 million that I would NOT have had if I hadn’t made the leap to buy it.

In parallel, I kept building my real-estate portfolio, using the ‘spare cash’ that my other businesses produced … most of which I still own (the real-estate, not the businesses … I usually don’t advocate buy-to-sell for real-estate … the office building was an exception).

But, that office building was still my scariest – yet, one of my best – Real Estate transactions, to date.

So, if you are thinking of buying some real-estate (be it your own home, own office, or a rental) and can afford the payments, I say:

Go ahead and jump right in … after the inital shock, the water’s fine 🙂

The 6% Realtor Solution

Casting Call

 

Last days for ‘pre-applications’ to become one of my 7 millionaires … In Training! Click here to find out more …

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

To get a Realtor or not to get a Realtor, that is the 6% question …

Joshua asked a question about a recent post:

I’m planning on buying a condo soon  … fixing it up a bit and renting it out … but how would someone “educate themselves daily on the market”? I keep an eye on the 30 FMR and am impressed with rates right now but I’m wondering if there’s more to this education.

If you’ve been following this blog, you’ll probably also be thinking that now might be a great time to be buying some real-estate: a house, a rental house/condo, duplex/triplex/quadraplex, retail/commercial, office or industrial … the choices abound!

No matter what you are thinking of buying, once you have done some of your own homework and narrowed down (a) the type of real-estate you want, (b) the price range that you are interested in, and (c) the area/s that you are looking at …

… then find a Realtor who will send you ‘comps’ (i.e. comparable sales) on similar sales in the area from the Multiple Listing Service (MLS).

Also, ask the Realtor for information that will help you find how the market has changed over the past couple of years … do the same with rental ‘comps’.

Also, physically look at a number of similar properties in the area/s that you are interested in before choosing one.

 Of course, you can get some (most) of this information from public (many free) databases … just Google ‘MLS’ for listings of properties of the type that you are interested in, and sites like rent.com for rental rates on apartments and houses. Sites like realtytrac and loopnet are great for commercial.

But, there are some big advantages of using a Realtor:

1. Qualification – these guys are trained (more so than a ‘standard’ real-estate agent … the ‘Realtor’ designation actually means something!) and if they have worked in the market for a while, they will know what you are looking for before you do.

2. The MLS listings that they can get you are far more detailed than the publicly available ones.

3. If they own and invest in the same types of properties in the same areas that you are interested in, they can be a great resource (AJC: this should be the first question that you ask … only deal with an Investor/Realtor who already invests in the same type of real-estate that you want to be investing in, and in the same or similar area/s).

4. They will represent you in the purchase and the other guy (i.e. the one selling the property) pays their fee – they typically split commissions with the selling agent.

So, the seller’s 6% commission pays you for a ‘free’ buyer’s agent … just choose the right one … OK?

The most dangerous idea in retirement planning that I have ever read!

Casting Call

 

Double Dose of 7million7years! Please check out my FIRST EVER Guest Post … it’s at BripBlap, a blog that should be on your DAILY READING list: http://www.bripblap.com/2008/guest-post-education-a-curse-or-a-cushion/

In a few weeks, I was planning an ‘expose’ of a book that I read , but just came across a related post by an innovative thinker who calls himself Gryffindor (presumably, named after one of the Hogwarts Houses in Harry Potter) so I can’t resist but to weigh in now …

And, I’m going in boots and all!

First, here is what Gryffindor had to say – which I actually like because it is innovative and a little controversial:

So if an investor has 2 million at the age of 55, what does the conventional wisdom say? He could invest it and with a safe withdrawal rate of 4% count on $80,000 a year. 2 million of savings – with that all you get is a 80k a year. No wonder most people are depressed about retirement.

Now what if the investor takes a million of his nest egg and buys [a] business? She gets $200k of cash flow a year that is growing at 3% to match inflation. She can also reinvest the additional earnings from the other $1 million. She also gets some additional tax benefits of owning the business and can have some productive part-time hobby / business and not just spend her time on the golf course. It sounds all good to me.

And, here is part of my response that I posted on his blog post:

This is such an important topic that I am going to post a response on my blog [which you are now reading!] … I would really like to set up some debate on this because it is a very useful – but, potentially highly dangerous – retirement strategy that really needs to be well thought through before anybody implements.

Rightly or wrongly, some people just see me as a guy who ‘got lucky lucky in business’ (AJC: most of my $7m7y Net Worth actually came from investments … my leter/additional Net Worth came from selling some businesses), so it might seem natural when I say that Gyffindor actually appears to be onto something that is one of the central ideas in a recent book called Get Rich, Stay Rich, Pass It On.

The principle is that rich people keep their money for generations ONLY if they split their assets roughly one-third in a business, one-third in paper (stocks, bonds, mutual funds, etc.) and one-third in real-estate (incl. their own home):

Then, you might be surprised when I say that this is “the most dangerous idea in retirement planning that I have read”!?

What the book is recommending, that I find so damn dangerous for retirees, is this:

The authors of Get Rich, Stay Rich, Pass It On suggest that you need to invest, and keep invested forever,  25% – 35% of your Total Household Assets into ‘continually innovative enterprise/s’:

What we mean here by a continually innovative enterprise is one that either offers a product or service that breaks new ground or changes a traditional product or service so much that it becomes virtually new.

Now, that is something that you do before you retire so that you can retire rich … you take risks, you innovate, then you sit back and reap the profits (or sell) …

… it is not something that you get into in order to preserve wealth, which is exactly what the authors suggest:

At the lowest level of personal involvement, you might invest in a limited partnership, private equity plan, or venture capital program in which the actual management of the enterprise – possibly even the choice of the enterprise to invest in – is beyond your reach and outside your control.

Put simply: this recommendation is crazy

… in my opinion, it unfortunately totally discredits an otherwise fine book written by authors who are respected consultants who assess the wealth habits of America’s mega-rich for the financial planing industry.

to me it seems that they are confusing the Making Money 201 wealth-building practices that rely partially on risk-taking strategies that may include a business – or, at least look a lot like a business (e.g. rehabbing/flipping real-estate; trading stocks/options etc.) …

… with the Making Money 301 wealth-preserving (i.e. retirement) practices that move you away from risk towards passive income!

So, is there a place for owning a business in a wealth-preservation strategy?

Absolutely!

I think that I speak with some authority on this: I have owned, operated, and successfully sold a number of businesses across a number of countries, many of which I owned at the same time!

I was an active owner in some and am still a passive owner in others …

Now that I am retired before 50, I am giving one part of a business away to my partner, converting another part into a ‘licence annuity’ that I will keep, and I am also keeping one other operating business as a semi-passive entity.

This last one is interesting, as it appears to support the thesis in Gryffindor’s post and the book that I mentioned:

This business is still in another country … it’s a finance company that turns over $40,000,000 per year with a only staff of 4 and nets me a cool $250k per year with about an hour’s work a month from me … I control it (through various legal entities) 100%!

Even so, here is the fundamental truth:

There’s no such thing as a PASSIVE business – as long as you own a business, you:

1. Will lose sleep every so often until it is sold or closes down, and

2. You will NEVER be truly retired.

As long as you can accept this level of semi-retirement worry and activity (which may actually HELP to keep you young!) then the Gyffindor Strategy could work for you, BUT:

i) I could accept owning in retirement: Big Name Franchises; Self-storage facilities; Mobile-home parks; Car-Washes; Your own well-established business that you are now ‘winding back on’. 

ii) I would be a lot more concerned about: auto-repair and other skill-based businesses OR ‘vanity businesses’ – you know, the types that celebrities like to own (e.g. restaurants, bars, etc.).

iii) You would need to set out to have the business/es that you select run without you from the very beginning.

If you like the idea of owning a business in ‘retirement’, here’s a hint:

This strategy could hold a lot more attraction for you if you can also own the real-estate that the business operates from!

Why?

A. It assures the rental stream,

B. It assures at least some capital growth,

C. It hedges your bets against business failure (particularly if you plow excess cash generated by the business into the mortgage),

D. It provides a partial exit stream i.e. sell or give the business to management or a buyer under the condition of a long-favorable lease with upward-only ratchet clauses (rents increase at least with inflation).

A final thought:

I mentioned that I will continue to own at least one business now that I am fully retired:

– I founded this business and have owned it since 1991 … it has successfully run without my direct involvement for more than 5 years.

– I tried to sell it anyway, but it was only worth 3 times annual Net Profit before Tax … for that I will keep it for three years and take my chances!

– If I do happen to find a buyer who will pay me 5 or 6 times annual Net Profit before Tax, I will sell it.

– I do not count this business’s income towards my retirement portfolio’s ‘safe withdrawal rate’ because anything can happen with a business at any time … rather, I use the profit to build my portfolio’s total value, and spend the passive income from that.

If I do eventually sell it, THEN I will increase my portfolio’s withdrawal rate because I will have converted the business into a passive investment (cash, stocks, or real-estate).

Phew! This is one of my longest posts … so, now it’s your turn to comment!