Monthly Archives: April 2008

Business and real-estate: a marriage made in heaven

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I was reading a review of Robert Kiyosaki’s new book, Increase Your Financial IQ, on Patrick’s blog.

The book holds no great interest for me … although, Robert Kiyosaki’s Financial IQ # 1 did:

It simply says: “Financial IQ #1 – Make More Money” …

… which is perhaps the only real ‘secret’ to getting rich – which is strange, since it seems so self-evident … but, that’s the subject for another post.

But, I was interested in Patrick’s summary of what he liked / didn’t like about the book:

Like.Kiyosaki is a contrarian, which at times is a good thing. He believes more people should work for themselves to create wealth and alternative income streams instead of relying on trading your time for a paycheck. This is contrary to what many people believe – go to school, get a good job, and save. Not everyone should run their own business, in my opinion, but everyone can do little things to increase their income.

Didn’t like.Kiyosaki is extremely harsh on the stock markets, which in itself is not a bad thing. But it is a bad thing when you make incorrect blanket statements about them. Case in point: “You can train a monkey to save money and invest in mutual funds. That is why the returns on those investment vehicles are historically low.

Now, I happen to agree with all of the above …

Rich people make their money in businesses and keep their money in real-estate … pure and simple.

It’s what Robert Kiyosaki did (his business was writing books and making/selling ‘Cashflow’ games; his wife looked after the real-estate investing side of the “Kiyosaki Family Business”) … and, it’s what I did …

… and, according to the new book about the wealthy – Get Rich, Stay Rich, Pass It On (think of it as The Millionaire Next Doorfor the new millennium) – it’s the way that the 5,000 rich families that they interviewed got – and keep – their money through the generations.

[AJC: Before you rush out an buy this book, wait to read my upcoming review … the stats are great … the conclusions that the authors draw from the stats are downright dangerous!]

I recently reminded my Grandmother (95 and still kicking) of a story that she told me when I was very young … one of those simple stories that can define you … it certainly defined the way I think about saving v spending.

She said that when she first emigrated from Europe, and she and my Grandfather had re-established themselves as poor but hard-working immigrants, they had a dilemma …

My Grandmother wanted to use their savings to buy a house so that they could have a stable environment in which to bring up my mother (an only child) in their adopted homeland.

My Grandfather wanted to use their savings to start a business. 

He eventually ‘won’ the debate by saying something that I will never forget:

You can always buy a house from a business … but, you will never buy a business from a house

You can argue whether this is true – after all the 20% Rule encourages you to use your home equity to invest – but, would you have the intestinal fortitude to put yourself deeper in debt to buy or start a business?

Or, would it be better to delay buying that house and pay for it later using the profits of the business?

I for one like the business route: anybody can start a business, just try it part time and limit your financial risk … if it takes off, fine … if not, try again …

Businesses do one thing really well: produce free cash! But, free cash-flow is useless, except for three purposes:

1. Reinvesting in the business to make it grow even faster

2. Increased lifestyle for the owner

3. To fund property acquisitions (build up for a deposit) and/or running costs (cover paying mortgages if the rent doesn’t).

Since I borrowed so heavily from Patrick’s post, I thought that I should let him have the last word on this:

I will guess you like all three of them, but number 1 has the largest benefit while you are growing your business. Do that for a while until you reach the point when your ROI experiences diminishing returns, then use the money for 2 and 3. As long as you increase 2 at a lower rate than the rate your free cash increases, you should be OK.

Right on the money, Patrick … right on the money!

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… 7million7years doesn't even know how much is in his Retirement Accounts!

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[continued from yesterday]

Now, I’m not particularly proud of this … but, it is true … I have no idea how much is in my retirement accounts; and, I didn’t even bother opening my own 401k account as CEO of my last company!

Why?

Yesterday, I wrote about the costs that can build up in the ‘food chain’ of the investing world, showing that merely accounting for the cost-differential between a typical mutual fund and a typical low-cost index fund can account for 20% of the performance of your entire investment portfolio after just 10 years.

I also, mentioned that I don’t like any of these products (even low-cost index funds, even though I will recommend them to lay-investors), primarily because of lack of control and too much diversification (who ever got rich from diversifying?!) …

So, the second part of this post will, hopefully, tell you why I don’t worry about 401k’s and Roth IRA’s as well as address a question that I recently received from a reader who asked:

Any suggestions on a strategy to use for retirement accounts if you earn beyond the limit for a 401k and Roth Ira? I have no company match for a 401k … get hit hard in taxes and have discovered that there is an income limit to a 401k and Roth IRA. Any suggestions?

Well my simple suggestion is: don’t …

The only time that I invest in a retirement account is when my accountant says:

“AJC, you have too much income flowing in, we had better plonk some into your [401k; Roth IRA, Superannuation Plan, whatever]”.

Yet, using a tax shelter is saving money, and as yesterday’s post showed, even a small difference in cost can add to a big difference in outcome … so, what do I really recommend and why?

If you still have plenty of working years left, I don’t recommend that anybody invests inside their company 401k except to get the ‘company match’ (who can argue with ‘free money’… yee hah!)

I also don’t recommend that anybody – who still has 10+ years of working/investing ‘life’ left – invests  inside any tax-vehicles (such as a Roth IRA) etc. UNLESS they can:

(a) Choose their investments, and

(b) leverage those investments.

By choosing, I mean the whole gamut of what we want to be investing in: e.g. businesses, stocks, real-estate, and ???.

Now, in practice, these 401k/IRA’s are limited, so if you don’t intend to invest in some/all of these classes of investment or you have so little money to invest that you can ‘fit’ the whole or part of your intended, say, stock purchase strategy into one of these vehicles then, absolutely … knock yourself out!

Therefore, for most people, it’s still possible that a 401k or Roth IRA can provide an important place in their investing strategy … simply because the amount that they have to invest is so small …

… even so, they should go ahead only if it doesn’t limit the scope of their overall investing strategy, hence returns!

And, we should all know by now that primary importance of your investing strategy should be set on maximizing growth unless:

i) You are within a few years of retirement, when you no longer have time to take risks and recover from mistakes), or

ii) Have such a long-term, low-value outlook that simply saving in a 401k will do the trick (in which case, invest to the max.).

Just remember, this blog and my advice isn’t for everyone … it’s only for those who need to become rich …

… which usually means getting into investments that:

1. You understand and love, and

2. You can grow over time, and

3. You can leverage through borrowings.

If it doesn’t meet all three of these criteria, I simply don’t invest!

Direct investments in businesses and real-estate are the investment choices of the rich because of these three criteria… stocks to a lesser degree (you can only ‘margin borrow’ up to 100% of these, so the amount of ‘leverage’ that you can apply is lower than for, say, real-estate) … and, Managed Funds even less so (you can margin-borrow only on some of these, and only from limited sources).

For me, the limits that tax-effective vehicles place on me, and the maximums that I am allowed to invest in them, automatically reduce these typical ‘tax shelters’ to a very minor position in my portfolio … so minor, that I allow my accountant to manage them for me, totally.

Remember, though, that they only became a minor portion of my portfolio because I followed the advice that I am giving you here when I was still early into my working/investing career!

Now, I hope that (eventually) you, too, will have so much money OUTSIDE your 401K that whatever is INSIDE will be insignificant for you … in the meantime, at least invest for the full company match.

Pretty controversial? Let me know what you think?

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Why 7million7years doesn't buy 'packaged' products …

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I left a somewhat tongue-in-cheek footnote to a recent post on the differences between Index Funds and ETFs (if you didn’t read it, I favor the former over the latter for neophyte investors, and neither for serious investors):

Important Note: 7million7dollars does NOT currently invest in any Index Funds, Mutual Funds, or other “Packaged Investment Products” … apparently, he is just a (rich) product of the Stone Age ;)

It seems to me that the wave of packaged products has increased over the past 20 years.

No longer do you tend to hear those stories of people like the reclusive and grumpy Old Man Miller who fell off a ladder and died leaving no heirs and a box of dusty old stock-certificates that now just happens to be worth $900,000 (not to mention a pile of gold just sitting under some lumber in the old wood-yard)!

It’s not just stocks … it seems that you can’t buy L’il Jon a toy without taking out your industrial grade laser to burn through 15 layers of impossible-to-open plastic ‘bubble’ packaging.

Think about the cost-differential between a typical consumer product at manufacture (the price it cost the guy who made it in: raw materials, labor, tooling, bulk packaging, and bulk shipping) and the eventual end consumer who buys it at retail: the price can inflate by 5 to 7 times … or even more.

The more hands, the more cost … simple.

Similarly, with ‘investment products’ …

… in my perhaps archaic way of looking at things, the further removed that I am from the investment, the less control I have, the more people who want to add cost (including their profit) into it, and less I like it.

That’s one of the reasons that businesses (my own) are my favorite form of investment … followed by direct investment in real-estate … followed by direct investments in company stock.

 Now, if you do decide to invest in a fund, why would you choose a Low Cost Index Fund over the typical well-diversified Mutual Fund?

Unless, you can guarantee to find me a Mutual Fund that will outperform the market over the next 10 years (considering that 85% of fund managers don’t beat the market, that’s an easy bet for me to take), I would choose the lower cost option, simply because of cost.

If the Index Fund charged you only 0.25% of your total investment amount to enter the fund and another 0.25% a year to manage it for you, but the mutual fund charged you 1.0% and 1.0% [BTW: in this example, the Index Fund fees are too high and the Mutual Fund fees are too low] …

… over just 10 years (assuming an average 8% return for each), you would have paid the Index Fund just over $43,000 in fees … but, the Mutual Fund $157,000.

Why so much?

Because, you also need to factor in the foregone earnings on the amount that you could have had invested, if those fees weren’t there …

On the other hand, if you invested directly in some stocks and just managed to meet the market, with little to no fees (it costs just $7 to buy, say, $25,000 of stock using an on-line broker) …

… now you know why I don’t like packaged products!

I encourage you to run some numbers for yourself …

[To be Continued]

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How to sort the rational wheat from the emotional chaff …

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I published a post last week called 10 steps to whatever it is that you want … how to weigh up the cost of a lifestyle decision which outlined a basic Making Money 101 decision-making process to help you sort your way through a discretionary purchase decision (you know the type: “Hey, that 48″ plasma screen would look really great on that wall!”).

You see, I come from the school of Ambivalent Frugality – sometimes you should … sometimes you shouldn’t. After all, money was invented to trade for ‘stuff’, right?

We just have to trade it for the RIGHT stuff, only when we can AFFORD it; and, the 10 Steps were designed to help us do exactly that.

Now, I don’t normally do a follow-up post so quickly … after all, what will I have left to write about next month?! 🙂

[AJC: kind’a reminds me of the old joke: why shouldn’t you look out of your office window all morning? Because you’ll have nothing to do all afternoon!]

But, Diane had a great question attached to my original post that this post is designed to help her answer – and, I hope that it helps you, too!

Here’s part of Diane’s question:

Have a dilemma regarding is it a need or a want – I have a house now, student loans, bad debt ) and need to decrease everything. I have a rescue Old English Sheepdog I’ve had now over a year and a half. Always meant to get a [larger] fence up, even prior to getting him, but had different expenses and no savings to cover them (hence the debt climb) and have put off getting a fence up … under the 10 questions, it doesn’t qualify as something to change lifestyle, but … I think this is a need, but … it is a financial decision as well. It’s not putting food in our mouths, but it is providing shelter and protection for the family dog who is also protection for us (single mom household). Or is this too left-field?

Now, this is definitely not left field, but – at least on the surface- the 10 Questions seem more designed to answer “can I afford ‘stupid stuff'”-type questions than these really tricky emotional ones.

In my experience, when we get into emotional ‘need v want v life-changing’ questions, rational decision-making can fall flat on it’s head.

But, I have a simple solution …

… one that doesn’t need to involve attempting to answer (preferably, Qualified Shrink Assisted) a myriad of ‘soft’ questions like: “will the animal suffer if you don’t put the larger fence up?” and/or “will YOU suffer if you delay puttin the larger fence up?” and/or “did your parents emotionally ‘fence’ you in when you were young and are you projecting this onto your dog?” and so on [AJC: Sigmund would be SO proud of me].

Instead, I shortcut the whole process for Diane – and, I suggest that you give this a try next time you are trying to avoid answering the 10 Questions because you really need something that you probably can’t afford, too – by simply asking her to do the following:

Follow the 10 questions exactly as written … that’s what I put them there for!

Simple … isn’t it?

Now, Diane, if you followed this advice on Sunday when you left your comment, by now you would have made your own sane, rational decision. Right?

If as I suspect, given your financial position, it was against Poor Pooch then I have a question for you:

How do you really feel now, having made that really hard decision?

…… [Diane inserts emotional feeling of (a) relief having made the ‘right’ decision, or (b) pain having made what feels like a terrible, albeit financially correct decision, or (c) she’s emotionally dead] …..

Diane – and all of us – that is the only way to sort through an emotional need from a want:

Make the decision rationally, then see how you really feel …

… then, go with your feeling!

That’s what LIFE is all about … and, didn’t we just say that our money is to support our life?

AJC.

PS There’s a neat shortcut to this process: when faced with a difficult choice – and you don’t want to pay for professional advice to help you get through the decision-making process – simply flip a coin and mentally go with the decision. Dig deep to see how that makes you feel … and, go with your feeling!

 

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How do I figure social security and pension plans into my 'Number'?

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In a couple of posts, I have talked about The Number – the amount that you need to have saved (preferably, invested in passive income-producing investments) by the time you retire.

Before we move on, it’s probably time for a quick review of what I mean by ‘retirement date’ because it’s not the same age-related date as most Personal Finance books and blogs assume:

‘Retirement Date’ = The Date YOU Choose to Stop Work!

… This is not 65 or any other age your boss, the government, or society tells you! If you are 35 years old and actually want to retire @ 65 on $1,000,000 a year this is NOT the blog for you!

Now, having got that one off my chest (!), one of my readers, who IS close to the traditional retirement age, asks a great question about how to figure his retirement benefits (which, he will receive as an annuity rather than a lump sum) into The Number for him …

… you can read his original comments here, but this is the essence of his problem:

I am just having trouble trying to quantify my pension so I can include it in my net worth … the trouble is I don’t receive a lump sum, but rather 65% of my base upon retirement, every year, which includes increases for cost of living every year.

The problem is that this reader was trying to find a way to calculate the ‘implied passive asset value’ of this pension into his Net Worth … while you could do that, there’s no real reason to.

If you are in a similar situation, what you really need to know is:

Can I live my ideal retirement on this pension … if not how much extra do I need to count on having in investments by the time I do want to retire?

To do that, we only need to make a slight modification to the formula we have used before.

1. STATE how much you need to live your ‘ideal retirement‘ assuming that you stopped work today (it’s not how much you would have, but how much you would need). What is that number?

2. DOUBLE that amount for every twenty years that you have left until retirement (add 50% if only 10 years, etc.). What is that number?

3. SUBTRACTthe annual value of any social security, annuities, pensions, or other regular amounts that you are reasonably (actually, very) certain to get. What is that number?

4. MULTIPLY your answer by 20 (slightly conservative) to 40 (very conservative). That is The Number … for you!

A couple of points:

I usually ignore Social Security and other government benefits, mainly because governments and regulations change … the longer until your chosen ‘retirement’ the more chance that these things will vaporize before you get there.

Similarly, I work on pre-tax numbers, because I have no idea what the tax regulations will be like …. the longer you have to wait until your chosen ‘retirement date’ the more chance that taxes will change (read: increase) before you get there.

But, these are only rough calcs to get you aiming towards a (probably) larger target than you previously figured on … as you get closer to your planned retirement, you will no doubt have had a number of sessions with a suitably qualified financial adviser who will figure out the exact effects of things like: inflation, taxes, social security.

Now, if you are still a fair way away from retirement (say 10+ years) you may want to figure in the impact of the pension on your Investment Net Worth.

You could multiply your expected yearly retirement benefit, again assuming that you were retiring today, by 20 (this time using the lower number means that you are being extra-conservative) and add this figure to your assumed Investment Net Worth.

You could also add it to your ordinary, garden-variety Net Worth to make 20% Rule decisions regarding how much ‘house’ you can afford.

You could do these things … but, I wouldn’t.

Why?

How certain can you be that you will qualify for any of these things in 10+ years?

What happens if you can’t work, get laid off, your company goes broke or it can’t meet it’s obligations, or … ?

The reason for these ‘rules’ is to ensure that you put your foot on the investment gas … now … and, hard!

Don’t use possible future company or government benefits as an excuse to over-spend and under-invest!

By the time you do retire, you’ll be glad that you didn’t …

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Use your bank balance to play at life …

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I’d like to cap off almost a whole week of posts that basically encouraged SPENDING [AJC: heck, somebody’s gotta kick-start the economy!] with something completely different (well, actually, quite similar!):

My thanks to blogrdoc for pointing me to this very neat video for my Video on Sundays series …

It’s very entertaining – and from one of the world’s true [musical] geniuses … the financial point is in the 1st minute …watching the rest is optional (but, highly recommended!):

http://youtube.com/watch?v=yZve-azUmcI

In case you missed it, here is the key quote in that first minute of the video:

The instrument isn’t really that important. It is a means to an end. In other words, you don’t use music to play the violin. You use the violin to play music.

You really need to stop and think about this …

Now, here is the financial parallel – one that I tried to articulate in one of my very early posts:

The bank balance isn’t really that important. It is a means to an end. In other words, you don’t use life to increase your bank balance. You use your bank balance to play at life.

Musical/Financial food for thought?

AJC.

Acknowledgments:
blogrdoc
Issac Stern

 

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Applying the 20% Rule – Part II ( Your Possessions)

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In my precursor post called Applying the 20% Rule – Part I ( Your House), I defined the 20% Rule and the 5% Rule as follows:

You should have no more than 20% of your Net Worth ‘invested’ in your house at any one time; you should also have no more than 5% of your Net Worth invested in other non-income-producing possessions (e.g. car/s, furniture, ‘stuff’). Why?

This ‘forces’ you to keep the bulk of your Net Worth in investments i.e. real assets (stuff that puts money into your pocket … not stuff that drains your finances)!

As a reminder, I represented this as a simple formula:

20% (max.) for your house + 5% (max.) for all the other stuff that you own = 75% (min.) of your Net Worth always in Investments

I also pointed out in that article how the Current Market Value of Your House will usually go up over time (current market conditions aside) but, the Current Market Value of Your Possessions will usually go down over time (collectibles aside!).

Whereas houses generally appreciate … possessions generally depreciate!

Now, as much as I hate to point this out (because the ‘frugal blogging community’ will probably fry me!) you can actually use this interesting financial anomaly to buy more stuff …

… and, according to the $7million7year ‘philosophy’ the process of making money and getting rich should sometimes mean ‘delayed gratification’ but should never have to mean ‘no gratification’!

That means, that when starting out you may have to buy what you need and maybe even buy a house and generally screw yourself up financially (that’s where the ‘frugal blogging community’ comes in handy, because they will show you how to minimize – perhaps eliminate this risk – even better than my basic Making Money 101 Principles can help you).

If you do, by following my Making Money 101 steps and reading (and following) as many of these posts as possible, you will get yourself on the right track and find that:

 1. Your House fits the 20% Rule,

2. Your Meager Possessions fit the 5% Rule,

3. And, you are sensibly Investing the rest!

What now … well, pat yourself on the back and wait … until:

i) You have saved up enough cash to buy whatever it is that you are salivating over – repeat after me: we will never borrow money to by depreciating ‘stuff’ again – and,

ii) You have revalued your stuff (eBay and Craig’s List are two excellent sources of ‘current market valuations’ for all sorts of ‘stuff’) and found that they have lost so much value since you bought them that they now total less than 5% of your Current Net Worth, and

iii) The (hopefully, now increased) equity in your House still fits into the 20% Rule – and, you have applied everything in Applying The 20% Rule – Part I (Your House) if it doesn’t, and

iv) If you do buy the ‘New Stuff’, the total Current Market Value of your Possessions still fits into 5% of your current (hopefully, by now increased) Net Worth.

…. if you can check all of the above ‘boxes’ … go ahead and buy it, guilt free – you deserve it!

Now, the astute investors out there will have realized that if you increase your Investment Net Worth (i.e. the minimum of 75% of your Notional Net Worth that you keep in income-producing INVESTMENTS) – as you should, by an average of 8% compound a year or better – you will be able to increase the other 25% that is in your home equity and possessions to match!

In other words, you will (if you so choose) be able to match an increase in lifestyle arising from a better financial position …. life doesn’t get any better than that, does it?

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Applying the 20% Rule – Part I ( Your House)

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Since my early post How Much To Spend On A House is still one of the most visited posts on this site, I thought that I should write a little follow-up piece that gives some examples on how to apply this important ‘rule’.

First a recap:

You should have no more than 20% of your Net Worth ‘invested’ in your house at any one time; you should also have no more than 5% of your Net Worth invested in other non-income-producing possessions (e.g. car/s, furniture, ‘stuff’). Why?

This ‘forces’ you to keep the bulk of your Net Worth in investments i.e. real assets (stuff that puts money into your pocket … not stuff that drains your finances)!

Warning: most people think of their house as an asset, but by this definition, it most definitely is not … let this be a warning to all those ‘house rich … asset poor’ people out there who think they can retire just from their house.

For those mathematically minded, as a formula, this can easily be represented as:

20% (max.) for your house + 5% (max.) for all the other stuff that you own = 75% (min.) of your Net Worth always in Investments! Simple, huh?

Also, for those who have been tracking my posts, the difference between your Notional Net Worth and your Investment Net Worth will be the Current Market Value of Your House + the Current Market Value of Your Possessions; if you’ve been following my advice this should be no more than 25% of your Notional Net Worth.

Now, you may have noticed something interesting:

The Current Market Value of Your House will usually go up over time (current market conditions aside!)

The Current Market Value of Your Possessions will usually go down over time (collectibles aside!).

Houses generally appreciate … possessions generally depreciate.

This sets up some interesting situations that we should discuss … by no means an exhaustive list:

1. Aspiring Home Owner – The chances are that you have debt (particularly if you were recently a student), little income, some possessions, virtually no savings or investments. You will probably never be able to buy a house at all – or, if you can it may never be bigger than a cardboard box – if you follow the 20% Rule …

… My advice is to buy the house anyway IF you can afford a decent down payment (ideally 20+%) and can afford the monthly payments (lock in the interest rates for the max. period that your bank will allow, ideally 30+ years).

A lot of financial mumbo-jumbo has been written in the press, books, and blogosphere about this … ignore what you may have read: for most people, it’s the only way you will ever get financially free.

2. Already A Home Owner – Revalue your home (be conservative … don’t wear ‘rose-colored glasses’ … check what other houses around you have actually sold for … don’t rely on any realtor’s advice – they may ‘talk’ up the price to convince you to sell – we don’t want to do that, yet!). Do this every 3 – 5 years (yearly is better).

If the conservative value of your house puts the equity in your home (Your Equity = What the Home is Conservatively Worth – Today’s Payout Figure On Your Home Loan) at greater than 20% of your Current Net Worth (you will need to redo this calculation at the same time as you revalue your house), then it is time to extract that ‘excess equity’.

What to do with this excess equity? Invest it of course! For example, you could buy a long-term, buy-and-hold, income-producing (get the picture!) rental property … or you could buy stocks … or you could take some risk and buy / start a business … or it’s up to you!

But, if you locked in your home mortgage at a cheap interest rate, you probably don’t want to refinance it, so be sure to ask a professional about suitable options for you (second mortgage; use your home’s equity to ‘guarantee’ the loan on another, etc.) … just be sure that you can afford the loans on both your house and your investment/s … make sure you have a cash [AJC: better yet, a Line of Credit] buffer against emergencies (loss of job, loss of tenant, etc.).

 3. Right-Sizing Home Owner – Again, revalue your home … but, of course you can down-grade (let’s say that you are retiring or the kids have moved out) – but just because you have freed up some equity and can easily fit into the 20% Rule doesn’t mean that you can slack off on your Investments.

ADD the freed up amount of equity to your Investment Plan … it will help you retire earlier and/or better!

Remember, your Investments should be a minimum of 75% of your Net Worth … you can and should invest more wherever and whenever possible! 

Again, if your original house is rent-able, and you have locked in a cheap interest rate (like I told you), you may want to keep it as an investment … consider doing so!

Now, buying houses isn’t always about making the right investment choice; there will be times in your life when you have to consider changing houses whether it fits within the 20% Rule or not (one obvious example was our First Home Purchase) …

… most likely, this will be at major life changes (marriage, divorce, babies). So be it!

Remember our Prime Directive: Our Money is there to support Our Life … Our Life isn’t there to support our Money (that would be just plain sick)!

Just make sure to revalue every year at first, then every 3 – 5 years min. and try not to get off-track, but if you do, simply realize if you are off-track financially and that you just have to get on-track at the first opportunity …

AJC.

PS You may want to bookmark this post (using the convenient links below) and review at every major ‘house change’ decision!

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10 steps to whatever it is that you want … how to weigh up the cost of a lifestyle decision

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In Devolving the Myth of Income – Part I we discussed the case of Docsd (or just ‘Doc’) who said:

I have been awaiting approval on … an older historic horse farm on several acres … my goal has always been to live as far below my means as possible while accumulating wealth.

This generated some debate, which eventually boiled down to the following well known saying:

Never invest in anything that eats or needs repairing.

Attributed to Billy Rose, the famous Broadway producer and investor.

But, you can’t always just distill your life down to the pursuit and saving of money – there is a word for being too frugal: it’s called being a miser! Sometimes, you have to make a lifestyle decision …

For example, buying a house to live in may not be the best financial decision in the strictest sense (but, still a sensible financial decision for most people) yet we often buy them for the emotional values: sense of ownership, stability, a house is a home, my wife will divorce me if we don’t 🙂 and so on.

Put simply: there are many acquisitions that we want to make in life that are lifestyle acquisitions not investment acquisitions.

And, the real financial question associated with them is: I really want it but can I afford it?

Unfortunately, there are no hard and fast rules on these things … so I came up with a fairly simple financial decision-making check-list that you can use:

1. Are you saving at least 10% of your GROSS income? If not, do not buy.

2. Are you putting aside enough to meet your future obligations (e.g. college fund, donations, family medical expenses)? If not, do not buy.

3. Have you paid down all of your consumer / bad debt? If not, do not buy.

4. Do you have all of the right insurances in place and have you saved and put aside a 3 – 6 month buffer against emergencies? If not, do not buy.

5. Have you bought your first home? If not, do not buy.

6. Have you paid down your mortgage sufficiently (and/or has the equity risen sufficiently) to ensure that you meet the 20% Rule (i.e. no more than 20% of your current Net Worth as equity in your own home)? If not, do not buy.

7. Are you Investing at least 75% of your Net Worth? If not, do not buy.

8.  Have you saved enough money so that you can pay cash for the item without changing your answer to any of the above and still meet all of your current commitments? If not, do not buy.

9. Can you afford to pay all of the associated expenses (insurance, repairs & maintenance, running costs) on the item without changing your answer on any of the above and still meet all of your current commitments? If not, do not buy.

10. If you have made it all the way to this Step without triggering a ‘do not buy’ …. what are you waiting for?!

… you’re a hard-working adult, if you really want it, go ahead and buy it … you deserve it!!

There you have it … 10 Steps to Whatever It Is That You Want, simply designed to ensure that you can buy the things that you want as long as you put things of lesser long-term intrinsic value (maybe of a higher emotional value) behind activities that:

Keep you out of the poor house, and keep you heading towards your ultimate financial goal. There is a short-cut if neither of these goals are important to you: Buy now and hang the expense!

But, I don’t recommend it 😉

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Celebrating Spending Week!

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For the remainder of this week I want to do something that I believe has never been done in the history of Personal Finance: encourage spending!

Why would I do a ‘heathen’ thing like that:

1. Well spending is good for the economy … it’s how we got things going after WW2 … go ahead be a Patriot!

2. Money has NO PURPOSE until you spend it

3. Money SPENT NOW is worth more than MONEY SPENT later (due to a little thing called Inflation)

4. Learning when/how to spend is AS IMPORTANT as learning how to save … after all, you WILL spend b/w 50% and 90% of your weekly paycheck!

5. If you don’t SPEND when you CAN and SHOULD, society has a word for you: Miser and we don’t want to confuse being SENSIBLE with being STUPID, do we?

But, there is a why and a wherefore that I will be exploring for the rest of this week … enjoy!

And, don’t forget to let me know what you think … we want to be on the cutting-edge of Personal Finance thinking, not the BLEEDING EDGE … your feedback will help us determine where we stand.

AJC.

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