How to sort the rational wheat from the emotional chaff …

I published a post last week called 10 steps to whatever it is that you want … how to weigh up the cost of a lifestyle decision which outlined a basic Making Money 101 decision-making process to help you sort your way through a discretionary purchase decision (you know the type: “Hey, that 48″ plasma screen would look really great on that wall!”).

You see, I come from the school of Ambivalent Frugality – sometimes you should … sometimes you shouldn’t. After all, money was invented to trade for ‘stuff’, right?

We just have to trade it for the RIGHT stuff, only when we can AFFORD it; and, the 10 Steps were designed to help us do exactly that.

Now, I don’t normally do a follow-up post so quickly … after all, what will I have left to write about next month?! 🙂

[AJC: kind’a reminds me of the old joke: why shouldn’t you look out of your office window all morning? Because you’ll have nothing to do all afternoon!]

But, Diane had a great question attached to my original post that this post is designed to help her answer – and, I hope that it helps you, too!

Here’s part of Diane’s question:

Have a dilemma regarding is it a need or a want – I have a house now, student loans, bad debt ) and need to decrease everything. I have a rescue Old English Sheepdog I’ve had now over a year and a half. Always meant to get a [larger] fence up, even prior to getting him, but had different expenses and no savings to cover them (hence the debt climb) and have put off getting a fence up … under the 10 questions, it doesn’t qualify as something to change lifestyle, but … I think this is a need, but … it is a financial decision as well. It’s not putting food in our mouths, but it is providing shelter and protection for the family dog who is also protection for us (single mom household). Or is this too left-field?

Now, this is definitely not left field, but – at least on the surface- the 10 Questions seem more designed to answer “can I afford ‘stupid stuff'”-type questions than these really tricky emotional ones.

In my experience, when we get into emotional ‘need v want v life-changing’ questions, rational decision-making can fall flat on it’s head.

But, I have a simple solution …

… one that doesn’t need to involve attempting to answer (preferably, Qualified Shrink Assisted) a myriad of ‘soft’ questions like: “will the animal suffer if you don’t put the larger fence up?” and/or “will YOU suffer if you delay puttin the larger fence up?” and/or “did your parents emotionally ‘fence’ you in when you were young and are you projecting this onto your dog?” and so on [AJC: Sigmund would be SO proud of me].

Instead, I shortcut the whole process for Diane – and, I suggest that you give this a try next time you are trying to avoid answering the 10 Questions because you really need something that you probably can’t afford, too – by simply asking her to do the following:

Follow the 10 questions exactly as written … that’s what I put them there for!

Simple … isn’t it?

Now, Diane, if you followed this advice on Sunday when you left your comment, by now you would have made your own sane, rational decision. Right?

If as I suspect, given your financial position, it was against Poor Pooch then I have a question for you:

How do you really feel now, having made that really hard decision?

…… [Diane inserts emotional feeling of (a) relief having made the ‘right’ decision, or (b) pain having made what feels like a terrible, albeit financially correct decision, or (c) she’s emotionally dead] …..

Diane – and all of us – that is the only way to sort through an emotional need from a want:

Make the decision rationally, then see how you really feel …

then, go with your feeling!

That’s what LIFE is all about … and, didn’t we just say that our money is to support our life?

AJC.

PS There’s a neat shortcut to this process: when faced with a difficult choice – and you don’t want to pay for professional advice to help you get through the decision-making process – simply flip a coin and mentally go with the decision. Dig deep to see how that makes you feel … and, go with your feeling!

 

10 steps to whatever it is that you want … how to weigh up the cost of a lifestyle decision

In Devolving the Myth of Income – Part I we discussed the case of Docsd (or just ‘Doc’) who said:

I have been awaiting approval on … an older historic horse farm on several acres … my goal has always been to live as far below my means as possible while accumulating wealth.

This generated some debate, which eventually boiled down to the following well known saying:

Never invest in anything that eats or needs repairing.

Attributed to Billy Rose, the famous Broadway producer and investor.

But, you can’t always just distill your life down to the pursuit and saving of money – there is a word for being too frugal: it’s called being a miser! Sometimes, you have to make a lifestyle decision …

For example, buying a house to live in may not be the best financial decision in the strictest sense (but, still a sensible financial decision for most people) yet we often buy them for the emotional values: sense of ownership, stability, a house is a home, my wife will divorce me if we don’t 🙂 and so on.

Put simply: there are many acquisitions that we want to make in life that are lifestyle acquisitions not investment acquisitions.

And, the real financial question associated with them is: I really want it but can I afford it?

Unfortunately, there are no hard and fast rules on these things … so I came up with a fairly simple financial decision-making check-list that you can use:

1. Are you saving at least 10% of your GROSS income? If not, do not buy.

2. Are you putting aside enough to meet your future obligations (e.g. college fund, donations, family medical expenses)? If not, do not buy.

3. Have you paid down all of your consumer / bad debt? If not, do not buy.

4. Do you have all of the right insurances in place and have you saved and put aside a 3 – 6 month buffer against emergencies? If not, do not buy.

5. Have you bought your first home? If not, do not buy.

6. Have you paid down your mortgage sufficiently (and/or has the equity risen sufficiently) to ensure that you meet the 20% Rule (i.e. no more than 20% of your current Net Worth as equity in your own home)? If not, do not buy.

7. Are you Investing at least 75% of your Net Worth? If not, do not buy.

8.  Have you saved enough money so that you can pay cash for the item without changing your answer to any of the above and still meet all of your current commitments? If not, do not buy.

9. Can you afford to pay all of the associated expenses (insurance, repairs & maintenance, running costs) on the item without changing your answer on any of the above and still meet all of your current commitments? If not, do not buy.

10. If you have made it all the way to this Step without triggering a ‘do not buy’ …. what are you waiting for?!

… you’re a hard-working adult, if you really want it, go ahead and buy it … you deserve it!!

There you have it … 10 Steps to Whatever It Is That You Want, simply designed to ensure that you can buy the things that you want as long as you put things of lesser long-term intrinsic value (maybe of a higher emotional value) behind activities that:

Keep you out of the poor house, and keep you heading towards your ultimate financial goal. There is a short-cut if neither of these goals are important to you: Buy now and hang the expense!

But, I don’t recommend it 😉

Fire your boss before he fires you … the 50% solution!

There is a cycle of life in the workplace … it begins when you get your first job, and hopefully it ends when you retire.

At least, it used to, when people worked their way up from the shop floor to the executive penthouse by working hard and staying with the same company.

By saving as they could, and relying on a good company pension plan (indexed at a reasonably high percentage of their ‘ending salary’) these loyal, hard-working folk could look forward to a reasonably relaxed retirement at the age of 65.

Not so any more …

A news release published in August 2006 examined the number of jobs that people born in the years 1957 to 1964 held from age 18 to age 40.

According to this report, these younger baby boomers held an average of 10.5 jobs from ages 18 to 40 (In this report, a job is defined as an uninterrupted period of work with a particular employer).

Sometimes, this is because of new/better employment opportunities – or simply due to a change in life circumstance – but, all too often, it is due to being laid off.

This brings me to a recent post on Get Rich Slowly that asked “What To Do If You’re Laid Off?” … I’ll let you read the post and the comments, but I can’t help thinking that you need to put in place a ‘backup’ plan (something a little more meaty than the usual “save up a 3 month savings buffer“).

And, I think that the whole process should begin as soon as you get your first job …

… so, I was pleased to see this really cool post on The Simple Dollar, for all you college kids or school drop-outs out there [AJC: this is an equal opportunity ‘get rich(er) quick(er)’ site!].

The article was called About To Enter The Workplace For The First Time? Try The 50% Solution which really boils down to:

– We all know that Paying Yourself First 10% – 20% of your gross salary is a really cool thing, so

– Starting your very first job by Paying Yourself First 50% of your gross salary must be a really, really, really cool thing?

Read the post for more details, but TSD is absolutely right … why?

A. If you’re used to living on NOTHING, then living on 50% of SOMETHING has gotta be a snap 😉

B. If 10% of your gross salary compounded for, say, 40 years can give you $730,000 then 50% compounded for the same 40 years should give you $3,700,000 [AJC: It won’t be WORTH $3.7 mill. but that’s another story!].

But, as some of that post’s commenters pointed out, it can be very hard to start saving 50% of your starting salary, even if you lived on nothing before, because now you need to buy: food, shelter, transport, and so on.

But, the principle of setting your target much higher (TSD suggests 60/40 … spend 60% save 40%) when you start out and trying to maintain your momentum holds water.

Here is what I think that everybody who is still working for a living should do, regardless of source and amount of income, or their age:

1. Use this post, and the others that I have referred to, as a wake-up call that your job is NOT secure … therefore, your life is NOT secure until you take your future security into your OWN hands.

2. Once you realize that you are taking a financial risk every day at work, it becomes much easier to think about ways to break free. Start by putting as much behind you as quickly as possible, in case the ‘worst’ happens:

i). Commit to an maintain a Pay Yourself First mentality that may be as little as 10% of your current salary or as much as 50% – anything less is not enough … anything more and you are a miser 😉

ii). For any future increase in salary – commit to saving 50% of the increase and putting it to work in your Investment Plan

iii). For any future ‘found money’ including bonuses, tax refund checks, overtime payment, spouse back to work, etc. – commit to saving 50% of the increase and putting it to work in your Investment Plan

iv). Start a part time business – or find another way to increase your income – commit to saving 50% of the increase and putting it to work in your Investment Plan.

Take these actions with the eventual aim of firing your boss before he fires you!

What is your most valuable asset?

I just came across an old, but still very relevant post on Free Money Finance called Your Most Valuable Asset.

FMF says:

I’ve written before that your career is your most valuable financial asset. It turns out that Money magazine agrees with me. Cool!

In the May issue, Money says:

Your most valuable asset is your earning power. Invest in it.

I couldn’t agree more. Money continues:

Anything you do to increase your salary early in your career can keep paying dividends as long as you work. Take a class, pick up a certification, improve your computer skills.

Yep, I agree. A small increase in your salary over decades can really add up. Even if you have “only” 10 years or so left in your working career, it’s still worth the investment of time and money to improve yourself in your chosen field. Doing so can have a big impact on your earnings over a decade.

Now, this is great advice … but, it’s missing a little-something …

If you truly subscribe to the ‘max your career and life will be sweet’ way of thinking [I prefer the ‘ start a business or three on the side so that you can eventually ditch your career then life might be VERY sweet’ way of thinking] then I think you at least need a ‘rule’ to tell you how much of that extra income you need to save and how much you should spend.

For example, you’re probably already ‘paying yourself first’ by automatically putting aside 10% of your salary into your 401k and/or another savings vehicle, right?

Well, if you really want to accelerate to your savings goal, then here’s the secret:

 Put aside 50% of any future pay increases towards (a) debt repayment then (b) savings as well!

Now, this sounds like a lot … and, it is (which is why it ACCELERATES your savings), but you were surviving WITHOUT the pay increase, right?

Surely, you can live off 50% of a pay increase? Think of it as a slightly disappointing pay increase, but an increase nonetheless …

If you can think like this, here’s what it can do for you:

Imagine two people each currently earning $30,000 a year who put their savings into a 401k returning 8% a year and who expect a 2.5% salary increase every year; after 20 years:

The Pay-Yourself-First-Just-10% Guy saves: $165,000

The 10% + 50%-Of-Any-Pay-Increase Guy saves:  $275,000

Once you ‘get’ the idea of going into 50/50 partnership with your future self – your current self still gets to spend it’s part of the 50% ‘pay increase’ anyway it likes (!) – you will start to actively look for ways to fuel this exciting new partnership.

Here’s how:

– CREATE MORE INCOME e.g. get a second job; send your partner back to work; start a part-time business; get creative with this!

– FIND MORE MONEY: e.g. your tax refund check; spare change; Aunt May’s inheritance; lottery winnings; any ‘one off’ or unexpected few bucks that happen to come your way; try and keep your hand out of OTHER PEOPLE’s wallets, though 😉 

This is a guaranteed get richer slow’ish formula … and, should underpin ALL of your thinking from now on, otherwise you’ll just spend the profits that come from the more advanced strategies that we’ll cover in upcoming posts …

… and, over-spending will never make you rich!

Making Money 201 – Going for Broke!

If Making Money 101 could be drastically over-simplified as ‘saving’; then Making Money 201 is equally over-simplified as being about building your income.

If you were serious about getting your financial house in order quickly, then you probably already did some income building to help you pay debt off quickly while you were working your way through Making Money 101.

Unless you’re a CEO of a Fortune 500 company, or a top professional doctor / dentist / attorney / accountant, then you will need to think about starting a business.

And, to accelerate your business or professional income you may also decide to get into the business of active investing (renovating/flipping real estate, trading stocks and options, etc.).

This is the stage that you get to take RISKS (that’s why you need a solid foundation and plenty of runway … you WILL fail at least once, twice, three times …) because that is the only way to get the big financial REWARDS.

This stage is hard work!

But, it is where you actually sow the seeds that will eventually make you rich …

There are plenty of books and a few blogs around, but most of them are specific to just ONE WAY of making money … the author’s way; some are good and some are lousy.

By the end of this stage you will be earning more than 90% of the US population and will be accelerating rapidly down the runway to financial health … but, spending will also increase dramatically and you will struggle to hang on UNLESS you ALWAYS remember your Making Money 101 lessons about saving!

Paradoxically, you will be the ‘richest’ that you will ever be in your life during this stage IF to you, being ‘rich’ means being able to spend lots of money

… the problem is that your ‘wealth’ is only based upon your income, therefore only lasts as long as your business or job does.

Also, many of the Making Money 101 rules now need to change, as do almost all of the tools ….

For example, dollar cost averaging and index funds are replaced with sensible investment and savings rules and strategies.

You are still far from ‘rich’ …

In fact, you are still Just Over Broke … but, starting to break free!

Will low interest rates and inflation eat up the interest the bank pays you on your CD's?

Absolutely!

Here’s how to think about banks and cash … consider your time-frame first:

SHORT TERM

If you are keeping your money in the bank to save for something important (hopefully, for a deposit on an income-producing property?) over the next few months or two or three years, then don’t be overly-concerned about the interest rate or inflation. I keep a HUGE amount in the bank right now because I sold out of some investments and am staying ‘in cash’ for a short time through the current market.

MEDIUM TERM

If you have a large’ish sum that you are building up for something major in say 3 to 5 years, then a better ‘savings account’ would be a low cost Index Fund … as you save enough to meet the minimum investment criteria, drop it in … just be prepared to hold for at least the MEDIUM TERM

LONG TERM

If you are, say, 7 to 70 years before retirement, you in the investment mode of your life, and (a) are unlikely to have your cash in the bank, and (b) are crazy if you do! Over 7 or more years, yes, ridiculously low investment returns (and, to a lesser extent inflation) will eat your future alive! Put your money into any mix of Index Funds, Business Opportunities, Real-Estate Investments, Direct Stock Investments – keep away from Mutual Funds – as suits your personality profile and desire to get rich vs merely keep up with the Middle Class Joneses.

SUPER LONG-TERM (a.ka. Retirement)

Here is where that low interest / inflation combo (even if inflation is just 2% or 3%) will eat you alive … be prepared to be retired for a long time, say 30 – 50 years (even if you die young, at least your spouse and kids will be happy with their nest egg!) … you do NOT want your money running out before you do.

If you have a lump-sum, there’s only a few choices:

– Put it all into an Index Fund and only draw down 2.5% – 3.5% each year to live on.
– Put it all into income-producing real-estate and spend no more than 75% of the rent (after paying down mortgages and building up a suitable buffer to guard against ‘problems’)
– Put it all into TIPS (inflation-protected Treasury Bonds) and happily live off all the interest that they pay you every 6 months
– Implement a Bond laddering strategy, such as the Grangaard Strategy, which claim to be able to let you live off 6.6% of your lump sum at retirement every year
– Any combination of the above that suits your needs and ‘investment personality’

Each of these strategies is relatively “inflation-proof”, in that you get to increase the amount that you take out every year as a ‘wage’ to live off, and pays more interest typically than the bank will give you (expect maybe, the bonds … you pay a ‘price’ for the inflation-hedge).

Hope this helps?

Dumb Money!

I take issue with the seemingly interchangeable use of the words ‘saving’ and ‘investing’ …

Let’s not confuse buying Index Funds or typical diversified ordinay stock Mutual Funds with INVESTING …

… when you buy a Fund you are SAVING – consider it a long-term savings vehicle, no different to ordinary bank savings accounts, CD’s, and Bonds.

The difference? Effort.

 Buying a packaged financial product is no different to buying any other product: you send away for some information; if you like what you see you fill in the appropriate sales form; you pay your money and receive your ‘product’.

 Hopefully, when it comes to Funds, you make some money when you eventually cash out.

Contrast that with INVESTING:

 You do your research; you look for an underpriced item (in this case, a stock); you purchase the item; you watch the market carefully … and, when the price goes back up … you sell (this could be sooner = trading; or later = long-term-buy-and-hold).

Of course, you could just keep holding for dividends. In either case, you are aiming to MANAGE your holding to MAXIMIZE your RETURN.

Some people call the former Passive Investing and the latter Active Investing … but, if it walks like a duck …

… it is a duck!

BTW: there’s nothing wrong with SAVING … go ahead and buy some Index Funds if you’re not up to the task of INVESTING, even Warren says it’s OK …

“Another situation requiring wide diversification occurs when an investor who does not understand the economics of specific businesses nevertheless believes it in his interest to be a long-term owner of American industry. That investor should both own a large number of equities and space out his purchases. By periodically investing in an index fund, for example, the know-nothing investor can actually out-perform most investment professionals. Paradoxically, when ‘dumb’ money acknowledges its limitations, it ceases to be dumb.”W. E. Buffett – 1993

Making Money 101 – Debt Free & Saving Money

If making money is a journey, then it is one best broken up into three stages. The first stage is all about ‘getting your financial house in order’ …

… kind’a like packing your bags and getting everything ready for a long-journey before you even leave your house.

 This (first) stage happens to also be the one that is well covered by many books (Rich Dad Poor Dad, The Richest Man In Babylon, The Automatic Millionaire, and many more) and many blogs (I Will Teach You To Be Rich, Accumulating Wealth, The Simple Dollar, and many, many more).

I have read them all and I am sad to say that not one of these will actually teach you to be ‘rich’ … but, some will set the stage …

… and, this stage is really just about paying off debt and starting a sensible savings strategy. It’s also about learning the rules about what you should buy and when and how much you should spend and save.

It’s really about ‘clearing the decks’ to lay a solid foundation for future wealth; the earlier in your life that you start this stage the more ‘runway’ you will have for letting your financial wealth really take off later.

This stage is not fun!

The tools of this stage are debt repayment strategies, tricks to save a little extra money or earn a little extra income, paying yourself first, savings accounts, index funds, and dollar cost averaging … there ain’t no ‘rich’ going on here but, it’s a start …

Keep reading this blog as I will be sharing many of these rules and strategies for breezing through Making Money 101 in upcoming posts.

And, keep coming back to this post – I will be creating a special tab for it (and it’s future ‘sister’ posts, Making Money 201 and 301) on the home page.

Who needs more than $1,000,000?

Almost everybody will need more than $1,000,000 to retire on … most a lot more!

Look at this excerpt from an excellent report (that I would highly recommend you spend the $5 bucks on) from Retire Early:

Perhaps the most troubling aspect of safe withdrawal rates is that very few folks will have the financial assets required to [even bother] … While we’re blessed to live in a rich and prosperous country, only a tiny sliver of the US population can comfortably retire on their savings alone. “

In 1998 the median family income in the US was $38,885 so using a fairly safe inflation-adjusted withdrawal rate of 4% would require nearly $1 million in assets.

Since most folks acquire a bit more wealth as they age, about 5% of the 47-year-olds could boast $1 million nest eggs in 1998.

That’s why the Retire Early report goes on to say:

More worrisome, is the fact that few people with million dollar portfolios would be comfortable living on $40,000 per year. Most feel that level of wealth should support a more expansive lifestyle…

… it doesn’t, at least not safely.

There’s an old adage in wealth building, “The first million is the hardest. The second million usually comes a lot easier and quicker.”

Why?

To fund even a modest retirement, you’ll need a significant wad of cash. Prudent folks will begin saving aggressively today!

Good advice indeed!

Are you really on track?

I read an interesting question on one of my favorite blogs the other day.It was from a couple thinking about retirement asking the usual saving-for-retirement questions, peppered with the usual ho-hum terms: ROTH IRA’s, 401K, HSA, CD’s …

What caught my attention was the opening sentence to their post:

“I feel very knowledgeble about long term investments.  I feel I manage my retriement savings very well and this has been a top priority.”

If you think your ‘retirement is on track’ just because you are saving your 10% or so into all the ‘right investment vehicles, or retirement for you is still a hell of a long way off, I would just ask that you do the following quick ‘reality check’:

1. What is your current Net Worth (try the CNNMoney calculator)?

2. What is your annual income goal to fund the retirement that you always hoped for?

Multiply that by 20 to 40; depending on how certain you want to be that your money will last as long as you do …

3. The difference between 1. and 2. is what you have to make up (ADD a little more for inflation) between now and retirement.

If it’s only a little, keep doing what you’re doing; your retirment is probably ‘on track’ …

BUT, if it’s a lot, maybe you need to think about INVESTING actively (business, real-estate, trading) rather just SAVING (CD’s, 401K’s, etc.).”