Make the move ….

house on moundGuys, as the economy improves (if it improves) interest rates will surely rise, as they already are in other countries.

If you haven’t already done so, seriously think about buying some fire-sale real-estate and locking in the the interest rate for 30 years; one strategy – especially if the banks won’t let you take out a 30 year fixed rate mortgage on an investment – is to buy your NEXT home now (it need not be any bigger/better than your current), taking the 30 year fixed on that one, and keeping your current as a rental.

I’m not sure if that’s exactly what Lee was thinking when he asked:

Although the market in our area has held up fairly well through this housing crisis, it’s definitely a buyers market.  I don’t think I’d get top value for my home.  So, I’ve seriously been considering renting it out after we move.  If I did rent it, then I could go a couple different routes:

1. Refinance current home to 30 year (to help cash flow) and take enough cash out to put 20% down on our new home.

2. Refinance current home to a 30 year but take no cash out to get the payment down to a very low amount to have a very good positive cash flow.  Then put 20% down out of pocket on the new home.

3. Take out a home equity loan on the current home just to cover the 20% down payment on the new home loan (30 year).

4. Just go ahead and sell our current home so I can take advantage of the tax free capital gains … I could then use part of it to put 20% down on our next home … and use the remaining as a down payment on one or two rental properties.

5. I have to throw in one scenario just because of that little guy I call Mr. Conservative that sits on one of my shoulders, lol!  I could just pay my current home off within the next 2 years or so, then rent it out with a large cash flow, and use that cash flow to pay the mortgage of the new home we buy.

6. Maybe something I’m not even thinking of?

I think I see a case of paralysis by analysis coming on, so we had better head this off at the pass …

… while I can’t give direct personal advice (as I told Lee), I can point out that in cases like this it’s always good to ask yourself a couple of key questions before Mr. Conservative starts to get very vocal (in your subconscious) and you end up taking no action at all, so I suggested that Lee run some numbers:

a) What would be the situation on your current home, if you just took out a new (or refi) FIXED rate 30 yr mortgage, and put tenants in … what would be your new monthly mortgage payment and what monthly rent could you conservatively [it’s good to have Mr Conservative on your shoulders] expect?

b) After pocketing the excess of 75% of rents over mortgage from a) above – or, making up the deficit on the excess of mortgage over 75% of the rent – how much per month do you think you could save from your other sources of income assuming for the moment that you have FREE accommodation for yourself somewhere?

[AJC: the 75% of rents is to allow a buffer for vacancies and other costs of renting … just a very rough approx. for now]

Once you answer these two questions, my feeling is that the best scenario for you will become obvious … I hope 🙂

In Lee’s case, here are his current numbers:

3 bed / 2 bath 1450 sq ft. home in a great location.
Cost Basis: $158,000
Current value: $210,000
$96,000 (9 years 6 months) remaining on a 15 yr mortgage @ 4.625%
Current P&I repayment: $1,042 per month

And, if he refinanced the $96k remaining balance his bank has given him two options for a 30-year fixed loan:

$508/month @ 4.875% Closing costs: $2,000
$493/month @ 4.625% Closing costs: $2,700

For rent, Lee thinks “being ultra conservative” $900/month to $1100/month, which means:

Using 75% of excess over mortgage ($300) and assume living in FREE accommodations, I could easily save $3,000/month because that’s what I save currently even with my $1042 mortgage.  Throw in not paying our current mortgage and having $300 in additional cash flow and $4,000+/month would not be unreasonable.

For now those are the numbers, although I have to say the 75% of excess over mortgage number is probably high considering taxes and insurance on this place are about $200/month.  But as you said, these are rough numbers for now.

So, Lee is getting closer to being able to make a meaningful decision; here are the steps that I suggested:

STEP 1: OK, it seems to me that if you decided to keep your current home as a rental, you would lose money if you stuck to your your current $1k pm mortgage, and produce a positive cashflow of $100 to $200 p.m. if you refinanced.

STEP 2: It seems to me that your $3k pm savings rate will be enough to cover the expected $200k mortgage on your new home. Right? BTW: You WILL fix for 30 years, too (because this will become an ideal 2nd rental, eventually)?

STEP 3: Next, all you need to think about is how to raise the deposit; well, if you don’t have it now, go back to Step 1 and revisit these numbers, assuming that you refi, say, $150k instead of $96k. I’m guessing that you’ll be close to B/E – or, a slight monthly loss – on the rental?

STEP 4: You keep 25% of the rent (plus another $200, say) to cover taxes, ins, and contingencies PLUS you have plenty of excess monthly savings to cover you, until this ‘provisioning fund’ builds up.

Now, what do YOU think Lee should do?! Here’s what he thinks:

I think the smartest thing would be to refi without taking any equity out so that I have a nice cushion of cash flow.  I would then need to come out of pocket with the down payment for the new home which I should be able to do, and even if I need a little help, I could always get a small home equity loan on the rental temporarily.  But I feel pretty confident I could raise enough cash to cover the down payment without having to do that.

My next step…develop my plan of action.

Take Lee’s advice: model these questions to develop a plan of action that works for you … and, take it! 🙂

Rent or buy? Rent to buy!

StopPress1Please take a moment to answer this poll [AJC: which is in response to my No Ads On This Site Policy] by clicking on this link: http://www.misterpoll.com/polls/456056

It’s just one, short question; thanks!!

…. now, back to today’s post:
___________

Jim wants to know if he can turn his current rental into a Rent To Buy:

I have moved from a (rented) flat costing me ~33% of my (net) monthly income to a small house costing 25% (net). (Of course, being a First Time Buyer, I’ll be breaking the 20% net worth rule to put down a deposit, especially given the level of deposit required to get a decent rate here in the UK).

The current owner seems enthusiastic about the option of selling it to me at some point, but I’d like to ask advice on what sort of ‘offer’ to make. i.e. what sort of contributions my rent payments would be / discount off the market value.

I’m thinking if we both have a valuation done, I offer 15% off the average of the two?

I’m not sure that the Rent-2-Buy works in Jim’s case, because he’s already in the house and paying the rent!

But, let’s assume that Jim is willing to sign a longer lease, it will then depend upon whether he is able to bypass the agent or not.

You see, for a rent-to-buy to work, basically you are trying to say to the owner:

Rent to me for longer, then I will:

1. Save you the agent’s fees and commissions, because I will be staying in the house and will keep it as my own (“so, you don’t need an agent to manage me”)

2. Save the 2 to 4 week’s typical vacancy each year as the typical shorter-term tenants move on (you will need to find out what’s common in your area AND what the owner’s experience has been).

Then wouldn’t it be reasonable to split those ‘savings’ with the current owner (by way of a ‘credit’ towards a future purchase of the house)?

BTW: Jim, it’s OK to break the 20% equity rule on your first home, because it helps to get you into a house:

http://7million7years.com/2008/01/28/should-you-rent-or-buy/

AJC.

Oops! I didn’t answer the question …

Last week, I posted the second installment on my series about real-estate development under the ‘teaser’ headline: how much money can you make developing real-estate?

But, of course, I didn’t actually answer the question!

And, that’s simply because I don’t know …

… it depends on the project, and what you are trying to achieve.

But, I DO know two things:

1. Typically, real-estate developers work on:

– a 20% to 25% profit margin on residential real-estate projects,

– a 35% profit margin on commercial real-estate developments,

– upwards of 50% profit margin on land subdivisions.

2. I also know the EXPECTED profit margin on the two projects that I’m working on.

What that expected margin on my projects will translate into is anybody’s guess, because it depends on so many RISK FACTORS – which is why real-estate development is (in my opinion) a Making Money 201 income acceleration activity, not to be taken lightly.

But, I can share Tab 3 of my spreadsheet, which shows:

– That there’s about $2,000,000 (Australia … approx. $1.8 million US dollars) of land related costs: I estimated this as $1.5 mill for the actual purchase price of the property, plus $500k allowance for taxes, closing costs, and the necessary project permits. Obviously, I will put in better estimates for some of these costs, as they come to hand.

– I’ve assumed that the bank will lend me 60% of the total project development cost of $17.9 mill. (which includes, the land component, all the costs of consultants, permits, etc., and the building costs). I’ve since spoken to the bank and they will lend closer to 80% of the total build costs, PROVIDED that I sell enough condo’s ‘off the plan’ to cover their total debt.

– Based upon the 60% that I have used in the spreadsheet, I will either need to come up with $7,160 million of my own money (i.e. the $2 mill. that I will have already spent on the land and permits, etc. PLUS the $5.160 million ‘shortfall’ in bank funding) OR find a mezzanine lender who will lend me some of this (at inflated interest rates, naturally) OR find one or more equity partners, who will put up some of the $7+ mill. shortfall in return for a good chunk of the project profits.

– In this case, I’ve assumed that we sell the condo’s in year 3 (more likely – hopefully – to be a 2 year project) and pay back the bank and this spreadsheet assumes 10% interest rate (although, that can be easily changed), leaving $10.6 million to pay back my and/or the investors’ equity and (hopefully) leave some real profits.

– I’ve assumed that we’ve had to pay some interest at ‘preferred rates’ (read: higher interest rates) on my (and the investors’) equity, which leaves a ‘real profit’ of $892k … but, don’t forget that the preferred interest is also part of our (i.e. the investors’) profits … so, they need to be added together.

– Now, I have a management partner who is a builder (but, won’t be physically building this one), who is providing time and expertise in return for 30% of the profits of the venture. He has a sweet deal: not risk (he provides NO funding and only his payment is ‘at risk’) and 30% of the upside. In my next life, I want to come back as him 😉

– According to this spreadsheet, I make 32% on my money. Not a shabby return, and pretty much in line with the estimates that I provided above.

The good news is that the project has actually become much more profitable than the early version that I am providing here, but since it’s merely an estimate – as all budgets are – I’m not holding my breath 🙂

I should point out that one of my readers has kindly provided a more sophisticated analysis of the returns that you may wish to substitute in your version of the spreadsheet, if you are going to use it; Jonathan says:

On tab “Proforma”, shouldn’t the annual return equation in cell E34 be something like =(1+E31/E5)^(1/3)-1
It looks like you have =(+E31/E5)^1/3
This drops the return from 32% down to 25%, but I do believe 25% on 2mil over three years comes to 3.9mill (2mill + 1.9mill)

Thanks, Jonathan! This tab of the spreadsheet was actually created by a consultant friend of mine who specializes in this type of thing, so I didn’t really look that closely; still, I will be keen to hear what other readers think?

How much money can you make developing real-estate?

riskyReal-estate development is a risky BUSINESS, but it can be very lucrative and – provided the market doesn’t turn on you, hence the risk – you can predetermine HOW MUCH money you are likely to make and WHEN you can expect to have it sitting in the bank. All in all, not a bad MM201 activity … one that scales from small projects to large ones.

Speaking of which, my projects happen to be large ones but the methodology to analyze them is pretty much independent of size … only the number of zeros will change 😉

So, whether you are building a single dwelling, a quadraplex, an office, or a 8 to 12 story apartment complex (or two, as I am doing), you will still need to collect a few key numbers – that I ran through with you in last week’s post – from a reputable Realtor and an equally reputable builder:

– The cost to buy the land

– The estimated cost per square foot to build the size /type/quality of building(s) that you are planning to erect

– The expected sale price for finished residential apartments/condos/houses

– The expected rental rates – and current capitalization rates – for any commercial space (e.g. office, retail, warehouse) that you are planning on building

Of course, you need to have a pretty clear idea of what you are building – and, their sizes – before you can really do this properly.

If you have all that, then it’s time to move to the second tab of the spreadsheet [AJC: I recommend that you spend a few minutes double-clicking on each cell to see which ones require you to insert a number, and which ones are formulas that should feel free to use or adapt for your purposes]:

– Your site may be a certain size, but you will need an architect, designer, draftsman, or town-planning consultant to tell you how many buildings / floors you can put on the site … it’s this buildable area that we are most interested in.

– I have allowed $500k for consultants’ costs (e.g. survey, plans, etc, etc.) for my large project, but it’s much better if you can call the various experts that you need and get an idea of their likely charges up front

– At this stage, I’m not building in interest cost … that will come in the next tab

– Most of this tab of the spreadsheet is self-explanatory [AJC: just drop a comment, below, with any questions!] and, completes itself, IF you have researched those numbers that I asked you to get.

Don’t get overly excited about the $7 million ‘paper profit’, as next week we’ll look at how to build in the interest component [AJC: don’t worry, the profits will still remain in ‘nose bleed’ territory IF everything goes according to plan] …

Rent to Buy schemes …

Picture 1These exist all over the world …

… the idea for aspiring home owners is appealing; rent a home for a few years, and a portion of your rent is applied towards your eventual – if you want to – purchase of the house:

– If you decide that you don’t want the house, then simply vacate when your lease runs out, just like any other rental, or

– if you do decide to go ahead and buy, then a portion of the rents paid to date go towards your purchase of the house

… you may even have built up enough in ‘rental credits’ to count as a deposit, then all you need to do is go cap-in-hand to the bank for a mortgage for the balance.

Appealing? Certainly.

But, watch out for the sharks – and, there are plenty, as consumer advocate, Neil Jenman points out:

Here is a simple fact: ‘Rent to Buy’ schemes are dangerous scams. They are designed by predators who prey on the poor. They are a complete rip-off and should be outlawed.

Like all slick scams, ‘Rent to Buy’ schemes are so seductive. The pitch goes like this: We are here to help you. We have a unique system. If the banks reject you, we can help you.

And on and on and on it goes. One twisted truth after another. The straight truth, however, goes as follows. Victims of these scams (many of whom do not even realise they are victims until it’s too late) are ripped off in three ways.

First, they are charged an exorbitant amount of rent. Astonishingly, [one ‘rent to buy’ promoter] openly admitted yesterday that his rents are “double” the market rent.

Second, as well as the exorbitant rent, the “buyers” (victims) pay an exorbitant price for the home. The purchase price being asked for a home [that we recently looked at] was $380,000.   [Yet a] local agent estimated its real value at between $250,000 and $270,000.

So, on top of the double rent, the victims are also paying at least $100,000 too much for the home.

From the moment they sign up … they have instant negative equity (meaning they owe at least $100,000 more than their home is worth).

The third rip-off with the ‘Rent to Buy’ schemes is that the buyers are not the owners of the homes they are buying. No, the homes remain in the name of the rogues running the scams. Quite simply, this means that if the buyers pay the rogues and the rogues go broke or their companies collapse (as many do) then the buyers – who have done nothing wrong – are instantly evicted.

These schemes (sorry, scams) are just a variation of the notorious wrap schemes which were once promoted by get-rich-quick spruikers

So, the message is clear: be very aware of both the market prices for rentals and sales of similar homes before you even think about entering into such an arrangement.

On the other hand, let’s say that you do have a property that you want to rent out; offering ‘rent to buy’ for your prospective tenants can be an interesting option to ‘buy and hold for you’ …

… let’s say that you have purchased a new condo ‘off the plan’ and want to take advantage of the depreciation allowances (which are are strongest in the first 5 years), but don’t want the hassles of tenants not looking after the property and having to rent the property every 12 months or so to a new tenant.

In this case, offering rent to buy can be an interesting option; you could:

1. Find a young professional – or, young couple – with good credit and good job prospects,

2. Offer them market rent (towards the top of the range for your property type and area),

3. Give them a 5 year lease, with 12 month options (which means that they are no worse off than if they signed a simple 12 month lease at market rates)

4. After 5 years [AJC: or, at each lease renewal after Year X], credit a % of their rent towards the purchase of the house.

Now, think about this:

If your tenant stays for a number of years, and looks after the condo as though it will be their own, you won’t need a property manager, nor will you spend nearly as much in repairs and maintenance, nor will you suffer the usual 5% to 10% expected vacancy rate – and, you may be able to get away with something approaching ‘top rent’ (but, still within the market) for your area.

Now, isn’t that worth crediting 10% to 20% of the total rent payments towards their purchase if they stay the full 5 years?

Then, you get to sell the condo to them at market rates (as assessed by a licensed appraiser) LESS (say) another 5% to 10% (after all, you don’t need to spend any time and money of Realtor commissions, marketing, advertising, etc. (and, perhaps, have the property vacant while you do so).

The downside?

Well, what if they don’t stay the full 5 years? You still get top market rents … how can THAT be a bad thing?

How about property condition? Well, one of the clauses should stipulate that the tenant shares in the cost of any ‘wear and tear’ to bring the property back to selling condition (this can come out of the ‘deposit fund’ that you have been building up for them), because you still need it to appraise well. And, the tenant remains solely responsible for any UNFAIR wear and tear (e.g. damage that they have caused).

Sweet deal for both you and the renter/purchaser?

You betcha’ … IF you are ethical, and careful in your tenant / potential purchaser selection. Don’t forget, you get to take up all of those juicy depreciation allowances, then sell just in time to do it all over again … just make you cover off all of the bases with a good REAL-ESTATE SPECIALIST attorney and tax advisor 😉

Can your real-estate development project make money?

developmentLast week, I told you that I’ve been out shopping for commercial real-estate and ended up with not one, but two, high rise condo/office development lots …

[AJC: for those of you who have been keeping up with this blog, you will know that I feel that development is really a MM201 activity, whereas I was really out shopping for MM301 buy/hold commercial real-estate ‘with a twist’ – i.e. something I can rehab or otherwise add value to before letting it out – instead, I kind of just ‘backed into’ these deals by accident … and, my entrepreneurial instinct grabbed hold and took over 😉 ]

… and, this week I want to share ‘the numbers’ with you i.e. what do I think of the deal that just one of these properties offers?

It’s best if you start by downloading my ‘project feasibility spreadsheet’ – the actual one that I used to discuss with my project manager (who will be an equity partner) and accountant (who will earn some hefty fees) – from the new Real Estate Group/forum at ShareYourNumber.com by clicking on this link:

http://shareyournumber.ning.com/group/realestateinvestorsgroup/forum/attachment/download?id=2494516%3AUploadedFi38%3A5283

If you are having trouble, then try clinking on this image to go straight to the Real Estate Forum, and click on the actual link (that I’ve highlighted in blue for you in this image):

Picture 2

I’ve tested the link and it works for me … but, if you are STILL having trouble, e-mail me [ajc @ 7million7years.com] 🙂

Got the spreadsheet open, now?

Great, let’s get started with the first tab, labeled “Assumptions”:

– I bought the piece of land for $1.5 million (plus closing costs)

– There will be some ancillary costs (that we will go into later) to get permits to demolish and rebuild etc.

– But, this tab of the spreadsheet is more focused on getting down some of the key estimates that we will need in order to do a ‘back of the envelope’ analysis that should be enough to make the ‘go / no go’ decision on the land purchase, since this is exactly what I did with this exact same spreadsheet:

1. Any good multi-level builder worth his salt will be able to give you a ‘rule of thumb’ that says something like “a basement (for parking etc.) will cost you $1,000,000 for the first level, and $500,000 for each level thereafter” OR they may quote a ‘per square foot’ rate, like $100 psf to build it. If you can’t find a builder who will give you this for your kind of project, you may need to pay a GOOD quantity surveyor to do it for you. This is worth while for any reasonable size development project (e.g. quadraplex and upwards).

[AJC: you will need to know that this is an Australian project so you will need to multiply all the Australian dollar figures by 87 cents (i.e. multiply by 0.87) if you really want to convert this example spreadsheet to USA dollars – but, I don’t think that’s really necessary … what I DO think you should do is convert the ‘psm’ figures i.e. the areas given in ‘per square meter’ to ‘per square foot’ by multiplying or dividing by 10.75, as necessary … don’t worry, I’ll give you an example or two, as we go along]

2. To help me work out how large the basement needs to be, I need to find out from the municipal council how may car parking spaces that I need to allow for e.g. office space might be “one space for every 3 workers” whilst apartments and condos may be “one for every 2 bedroom apartment” or “one for every 20 square meters [215 square feet]”.

3. It’s critical that the builder or quantity surveyor is able to provide building costs, such as “it will cost roughly $1,500 dollars psm [$139.50 psf] to build out your office space and $2,500 psm to build the residential areas, depending on the quality of fittings that you want … this will be down to the last tap and door knob in the apartments/condos and the suspended ceilings and commercial-grade carpet in the office areas”.

3. You also need to know how large you want to make your apartments e.g. “do you want large, luxury 2 bedroom condos of about 70 square meters (including 4 to 8 square meters of balcony space) OR do you want smaller, urban-style condos of 35 square meters plus 4 square meter of balcony for your 1 bedroom apartments and 55 square meter, plus balcony, for your 2 bedroom apartments?”

[Hint: usually smaller apartments sell just as well as larger ones “off the plan”, but larger ones command a better price once completed; and smaller 2 bedroom apartments provide the greatest ‘return per square meter’ because you are still only fitting out one kitchen and bathroom; a 50/50 mix of 1 and 2 bedroom apartments usually works well … but, this can vary by location, so get EXCELLENT advice before you buy your land!]

4. Now, if you can’t be the expert on buying and building, these rules of thumb will be extremely critical – if you can find them and feel confident about them – but, you can and MUST become an expert in selling your condos … i.e research, research, research the areas you are interested in, how the condos are built/fitted out/marketed and how much YOU think they will sell for … get a good Realtor’s advice, too, and double-check it with one or two other Realtors.

5. As a ‘double-check’, you can try and run a spreadsheet (and/or ask your Realtor/s) how much condos are selling for ‘per square meter’ [or, per square foot], but this is a less critical figure.

6. If you have run the analysis that I showed you in this post, you should already know for yourself how much your office space (if you are building this as well as condos, as we are on the first two levels of this project) is renting for per square meter, and you can again double-check with a good Realtor or two who specializes in office rentals and sales (while you’re at it, ask him for the current capitalization rates for office rentals v sales …. we’ll get back to this in the next post in this series).

[AJC: you should have also already done this really simple analysis for the parcel of undeveloped land before you even think about buying it!]

Once you have these few figures (and, really, it’s not as hard as it might seem to get this stuff), you’ll be ready to move on to the exciting part:

How much money will this project make me?!

… which, I will answer in the next post in this series 😉

I’ve been out shopping!

high riseYes, I have been out shopping …

… last week I bought not one, but two, commercial properties:

– One is a warehouse/showroom that needs extensive renovation, and

– The other is a quadraplex (four apartments on one title/deed).

The first one (the warehouse) is one of those properties that you drive past for years and years and think to yourself: “Wouldn’t it be great to own that property … one day?”

Well, I happened to drive past ‘one day’ and a For Sale sign was out front!

Naturally, I immediately called the real estate agent listed and commenced negotiations … this is one of the advantages of having money 😉

He sent me a brochure showing the property listed at $1.2 million … the negotiations dragged on for a while so I asked a friend of mine who specializes in commercial real estate to step in and he promptly closed the deal for me …

… at $1.287 million!

Great negotiator, huh?

As it happens, I was not too upset about the price, because something strange happened between the time of first looking at the property and the time of signing the contract (which I did last week):

The property is basically an under-loved property on one of the main boulevards leading into the downtown area … not a hip area by a long-shot but a good area nonetheless (close to a railway station, shops, cafes, and with fantastic main street exposure) … all-in-all, exactly what I was looking for.

My plan WAS to simply rehab it: render the horrible yellow/orange bricks (i.e. cover then with concrete mixture to make a smooth ‘concrete look’ that can be painted)  and put in large, modern aluminum windows, a new roof, and fit out a new interior (probably $500k all up) then rent it out, to give myself a nice, steady 7% return with even nicer depreciation benefits (over all of the renovations) for the first 5 years.

But, my architect found something interesting: you see this property sits right next to an office tower with 8 floors, which was built over 20 years ago – this building is the ONLY building higher than 2 or 3 floors for miles in either direction …

… until now. My architect found out that the council is suddenly willing to rezone three or four properties around that tall building to allow building to the same height as that relatively tall building next door … my building included!

So now, I am sitting on one the the very few properties that may allow us to build 50 or so condo’s plus some office space, all in an up and coming neighborhood that will have scarcity of such condo’s because that’s all the council will allow!

Needless to say that I am going to get plans drawn up and council permits, then I will decide whether to:

a. sell the property to a developer with plans and permits, which I am sure will net me $1 million+ profit in a mere year or so, or

b. do the development myself.

Next week, I will run you through the numbers …

Instant Real-Estate Valuation Tool!

fear1Today, I want to share one of my secret weapons for purchasing real-estate: it absolutely kills paralysis by analysis, and it works for all type of real-estate, including residential and commercial.

But, I warn you in advance, you won’t like it!

You’ll think it’s risky, you’ll think it’s stupid … then you’ll find out that I’ve actually used this method three times … well, four times … and, each time it’s made me more money than I could ever have dreamed of.

Let’s think about the biggest problem in real-estate: knowing how much to pay.

So, what are the solutions:

1. You ask a realtor – if you can trust them

2. You ask a friend – but, are they the experts

3. You ask (actually, pay) an appraiser

4. You put in the ‘hard yards’ (missing many potential bargains as you simply stand by taking notes) learning about real-estate until YOU are the expert.

Of all of these, 4. is the one that I would recommend …

… if I did it, but I’m way too lazy 😉

Instead, I use 7million7years Patented Real-Estate Valuation Tool

Here’s how it works:

I find a property that somebody else wants to buy … somebody who is already an expert in that specific property … somebody who has: measured the place, gone to council, hired an appraiser, looked at 1,000 identical houses in the same areas … in short, somebody who has made themselves an expert in this type of property, and has narrowed down his search to this one property that I also happen to be interested in …

… and, I make sure that I offer just a little bit more for the property than he does. Simple!

Does this work? Sure … I’ve done this on my own home, an investment condo, a quadraplex, and an office.

Is this the cheapest way to buy such properties? Of course not; by definition, I’m always paying (at least a little) more.

Can it make money? Absolutely … I’ve probably made at least $2 million profit doing exactly this.

… and, the best part is that I’d probably still be researching my first deal if I didn’t.

Here’s one example of how it worked:

I was driving around and saw a condo for sale … actually, it was up for auction that day. I noticed that the sign was from an ‘out of town’ agent – I love these properties because they usually attract the smallest pool of buyers because the agents don’t really know how to attract the buyers out of their own area.

I went home and grabbed my checkbook and rushed back because I wanted to look at the condo before the onsite auction started: I saw a young guy in coveralls walking around with a tape measure doing a final ‘once over’ … it was obvious that he had been though the place before and was planning to rehab and flip it.

This was perfect: I simply bid against him at the auction until everybody else dropped out and it was just him and me bidding … the difference between us?

He needed to buy at a low enough price to rehab and make a quick buck; since I was buying to hold and rent, I could afford to pay a little more … which is exactly what I did: every time he bid, I bid a little more … eventually, he could bid no more, and my $500 ‘overbid’ was enough to buy the property.

I was surprised that I bought it … but, not as surprised as my wife 😉

But, we still own it … it’s the smallest property in our portfolio, but is still cashflow positive and has appreciated by over $250k.

So, who are these ‘unofficial appraisers’ that you are looking for?

– Home buyers – we bought our first house by attending an auction for a house that we expected to sell for a lot more; we just kept bidding until the only other serious buyer dropped out and we bought it – much to our surprise – far cheaper than we ever expected. We knew it was a good deal, because we knew the other guy had been looking around the area for quite a while

– Developers – I bought my office for $1,000 more than a developer was prepared to pay to buy it for as a ‘tear down’ … so, I figured that I was buying the property at land value and getting a whole building for only $1,000 more. I used the property for my business then sold it (a year or two after I sold the business) for around $1 million profit.

– Owner / builders – as well as the condo, I also applied the same technique to a quadraplex that I eventually bought; this was rehabbed while we were in the USA (my accountant oversaw the project) and I have never even seen the finished product, yet it is cashflow positive and has already appreciated by around $1 million. Again, I only saw this building once: on the day that I paid over $1.25 million for it!

Now, I don’t recommend that you do quite as little ‘due diligence’ as I often do (or, don’t do … as the case may be), but you have to admit that it is the ultimate cure to paralysis by analysis!

Scary, and you won’t find this technique in any book, but it works 😉

Paralysis by Analysis!

flipping-housesI have been asked, by way of two comments to this post, to talk a bit about my web 2.0 businesses (how I intend to make money with them) and the ‘distressed business’ that I am looking to buy … both of which I will post about, shortly 🙂

But, today I want to talk a little about residential real-estate:

I was having coffee with my builder-friend who is helping me renovate my house (hopefully, bringing a $2 million + renovation cost ‘blowout’ to a mere $1.5+ million) and his nephew-in-law happened to drop by.

He is 30, single, and wants to do his first development: he wants to purchase a block of land; subdivide it; and, put two town-houses (i.e. houses … just a little smaller than usual) on the block; then sell them.

When asked: “So? When are you building?”, he says that he has a lot of questions, and has been reading a lot of books telling him different things. He is getting confused … he is making the simple difficult … he is suffering from paralysis by analysis!

Look, this type of development is really the simplest thing in the world … even a 14 year old can do it:

My son has restarted his eBay business in Australia; he sells high-end headphones that he sources from China and sells on eBay in Australia. He buys 5 or 6 at a time (total cost = $500+) and sells each for circa $180, making around $40 profit on each. He’s 14 … he’s happy … and, as far as 14 year old standards go, he’s rich (at least, getting there).

And, it’s simple:

A. He finds a product that he wants to sell (headsets)

B. He researches the market for them (who’s selling them on eBay; for how much; and how many are being sold?)

C. He finds out how much it will cost him to buy them

D. He calculates his shipping and packaging costs (from China to Aus; from Aus to his customer)

E. He adds C. and D., subtracts the total from B. and goes ahead if the answer looks attractive (to a 14 y.o $40 a pop profit is huge)

Simple!

So it is with this type of real-estate deal (i.e. buy-to-sell, rather than buy-and-hold):

1. Find out how much your end product will sell for (drive around and look at similar brand-new town-houses for sale)?

2. Find out how much the land will cost to buy (drive around and look at blocks of land and/or tear-down houses for sale)?

3. Find out approx. how much it will cost to build (drive around and look for similar buildings going up and ask the general contractors / builders for a ball-park estimate to build similar on your land)?

4. Add 2. and 3., subtract the total from 1. and go ahead if the answer looks attractive (to a single 30 y.o. $50k – $150k profit for the whole project is huge)

If there’s any ‘secret sauce’ to this, it’s to become the expert in your end product … spend a month (max.) driving around and looking at every similar home currently for sale; get a feeling for how they look; how they are built and fitted out; see which ones sell quickly and why; and – most importantly – learn to set the right price.

The other parts will take far less time, because your goal isn’t to build at the cheapest price, or to buy the land at the cheapest price, or even to milk every drop out of the deal … it’s simply to sell for more than it cost you to buy i.e. to make a modest profit and learn from the process.

Buying real-estate – in a flat-to-rising market – to add value (by building, rezoning, rehabbing) then ‘flip’ is the easiest thing in the world … but, if you get caught up in the irrational exhuberance that always precedes a market crash, then it’s the hardest thing in the world; so buy now, or soon, when the market has only one direction to go: up!

Speculating on your own home?

Ryan, who is upside down on his own mortgage asks:

I agree that plenty of investments, if not most, will give you a better APR than your house, but what about leverage?

$500,000 House( $400,000 Bank’s money, $100,000 Your Down Payment) * .05(expected year 1 appreciation = $25,000

$100,000(Your would be down payment) * .15 (from a successful investment or business venture) = $15,000

This is POSSIBLY true IF you gain market appreciation; that’s called speculation.

On the other hand, if you put the same money into a cashflow positive rental, then you make money on the rents and any future appreciation is a bonus; that’s called business.

A case can possibly be made for using your own home as a ‘business’ investment IF you presume to (nominally) charge yourself market rent for the same type of accommodation …

… but, would you pay that same rent rent to somebody else?

The answer must be ‘yes’ for this to work.

If so, then compare how the property then stacks up as an investment if you were the owner and renter i.e. is the pseudo-rent greater than the mortgage?

But, there is still a catch: you also lose most of the great tax benefits of a true investment (e.g. depreciation), even though as home owners in the US you gain some (capped) tax-benefits – particularly in relation to your mortgage interest.

But, there is a solution: buy a house to rent out, and rent the identical one from somebody else!

Rent out the one that you own and rent the other one from the owner: this way, you ‘force’ yourself to treat the one that you own as a real cashflow investment and the other as a place that you live in.

What do you give up?

Probably that sense of ‘ownership’ (but, hey … you do own the identical one, right?) and security of tenure.

But, you must weigh this up against the benefits:

1. True investment ‘status’ … buy, sell, hold, refi as the numbers dictate

2. Gain depreciation benefits for anything that you add (works great if this is a new’ish house!)

3. Full, uncapped tax-deduction on mortgage interest, etc.

4. ???? [you tell me?]

In fact, if you have a friend, why don’t you each buy a house and rent it to the other? Now, that is a strategy worthy of a millionaire … in training! 🙂